Double peak

[medic566]

Any info on double peak? I've found only one reference to it in any of the books. How technical is it and how much gear do I need? Is it solo-able? I understand the lower of the 2 is a scramble, but the higher is more technical rock work. Any help much appreciated. Medic566

[This message has been edited by medic566 (edited 08-21-2001).]

[Fred_Beavon]

[This message has been edited by Fred Beavon (edited 09-02-2001).]

[Fred_Beavon]

Do you mean the Double Peak mentioned in the Cascade Alpine Guide? If so, I soloed both of them on 6-21-01. The rock work mentioned in CAG on the lower summit isn't too difficult as long as one's fairly competent. No rope needed.

[medic566]

Stefan, sorry for your pain. At least you got out of the city! What is the best time of year to make the approach in your estimation? The visible route fom the Northern view looks nasty, so how tough was it from your approach? What does the alpine guide mean by some rock work? My experience is mostly rock scrambles and alpine climbing on snow and ice. I really don't want to get myself in to deep, but the image of those 2 peaks have me captivated. Thanks for your help and advice.

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Medic566

[Stefan]

Best time of year is sometime after they open Cayuse Pass. When Beckey says there is rock work he means there is some class 3 stuff--which there are only two sections on the higher of the two summits. I did not do the lower of two summits. Timing would be tricky on this. You don't want snow up high on the rocky sections but you want snow below to avoid the bushwacking crap I had to go through. That sounds like mid May would be the best time. Don't worry about the Chinook Creek crossing. If the creek is really high, my recommendation is to go back to the trailhead and walk the trail for a mile becuase there is supposed to be a bridge over Chinook creek.

[medic566]

Fred, thanks for the info. This is the double peak so dominant and visible from hwy410 about 2 miles down from the top of Chinook pass? I'm assuming the same one in the alpine guide. Did you blaze your own trail or follow the guide book directions? On which peak and exactly where did you find the summit register? Thanks again, Medic

[Stefan]

I did Double Peak on Friday September 14. Don't do it now. Wait until spring. Here is my brief trip report:

Double Peak 9/15/2001

Did this peak in 5.5 hours round trip. Beckey says 5 hours one way to the summit. The route description is right on as described in CAG, where to park, where to cross the stream, when to go up, and how to go up. If you come to a way trail off of the Chinook Creek trail leading to Stafford Falls then you have gone about 100 meters too far. One recommendation: do not go after the snow has melted-as I did. I had to go through a 50 meter swath of small sticker bushes. Because I was wearing shorts and no gaiters my legs look like I went through some type of pleasure torture chamber. I was asking myself constantly why I subjecting myself to such a ludicrous hobby. Other than that it is typical cross country travel until you reach the basin at 4600 feet where the brush becomes almost nonexistent. Last entry was from Fred Beavon who had sent me a good route description earlier.