Layback Posted April 6, 2011 Posted April 6, 2011 I'm new to aid and I'm planning a 1-day of Town Crier with a much more experienced partner. I'm a 5.8 leader so 5.9 is going to be stepping outside of my comfort zone and I'm a little anxious about it. I'll be leading the chimney pitch and the triple roofs, (which I won't attempt to free like Mikey S). I'm told that most of the chimney pitch goes at 5.7 and it's just the last 8-10 feet that are 5.9. Is that accurate? How's the pro? Any recommendations or beta would be really appreciated. I can't seem to find much and pics of the chimney make me wet my pants. Thanks. Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted April 6, 2011 Posted April 6, 2011 Its 5.9 when you have to bust out of the chimney and head up and right. Physical, and slicker then snot if its damp in the chimney. Did I mention a little run out? You can get gear in the back of the chimney but you don't really want to go back that far to much, also make sure you are facing right going up the chimney and just friggin bust loose and send it on the jugs to the right. Its a classic, good luck, don't whip as it would not be pretty. but you get to the nicest little shady ledge before the traverse pitch.... Quote
dberdinka Posted April 6, 2011 Posted April 6, 2011 If you plan on doing it anytime soon your pants will be wet though hopefully not from pee. FWIW I've always faced left? Quote
mountainmatt Posted April 6, 2011 Posted April 6, 2011 FWIW, I faced right, but then again, I also was silly enough to bring my aid setup with me, so I was battling that whole time. Definitely agree, physical. Get your grunt on and have a great time! . Quote
Layback Posted April 7, 2011 Author Posted April 7, 2011 Thanks guys. Timeframe is Easter weekend. Hoping for nicer weather... Probably wise of me to leave the aiders behind for this pitch and wear rock shoes and then tag the aiders up if I need them later, no? In the below photo, is the climber even with the jugs (big ledge on right) or are they above him/her (top of outside wall of chimney)? Searching for the Tums... Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted April 7, 2011 Posted April 7, 2011 (edited) If I face left in the chimney, I have to turn back around to get to the big holds on the right outside edge of the chimney. I use the holds to the right to get out of the chimney, and then top out with the crack above the chimney. You can see the holds in the photo but when you are in the chimney they are not obvious. I'm sure there are a bunch of ways to do it. The guy in the photo looks like he is in deep trying to get a piece of gear in before he busts out of the chimney Edited April 8, 2011 by stevetimetravlr Quote
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