[TR] Colorado - Casual Route and Birds of Fire 8/10/2005

[matt_warfield]

Trip: Colorado - Casual Route and Birds of Fire

 

Date: 8/10/2005

 

Trip Report:

A Tale of Two Killer Alpine Walls in Colorado

 

Pictures are from Mountain Project since camera was lost (see report)

 

Longs Peak, Diamond, Casual Route (IV, 5.10a)

 

They say that the most active social scene in Estes Park after midnight in the summer is the Longs Peak trailhead. So there my partner and I were at 2:00 a.m. preparing to climb the Diamond car-to-car that day.

 

 

Picture of The Diamond, the 1000' foot Diagonal is below and not pictured, from Mountain Project

 

 

Off we went, storming up the trail by headlamp. At the Boulderfield, we paused and chatted for a bit before being accosted by a sleeping hiker (common camping spot for the walkup trail up Longs) who indicated his desire to fight anybody making noise around the sleepers. We pointed out that he was camping on a trail frequented by nighttime travelers and that perhaps he should shut the f*** up. Then we moved on.

 

We got to Chasm view to rappel in to Broadway as the shorter North Chimney approach involves snow/ice and loose rock. It was just getting light as we started the rappels to Broadway, the ledge system splitting the Diagonal and the Diamond on the east face of Longs.

 

Sunrise found us on the first pitch broken pillar. Then, superb 5.9 crack led to a 100' foot 5.7 traverse with poor protection. The meat of the climb is spectacular climbing up a dihedral with sharp incuts on the face, leading to a moderate 5.8 rating although the altitude will have you huffing and puffing most likely and most agree the altitude makes things feel a number grade harder. More crack, a strenuous squeeze chimney, and the crux led to Table Ledge. From afar, Table Ledge (really a crack for most of its width) is very obvious but when on face, you wonder where the hell it is first time up cuz you can't see it. A very exposed belay led to a very unfortunate dropping of my lumbar pack. The dropped pack went 800' to Broadway without hitting the rock (the Diamond is steep) then bounced down Fields chimney. Ah screw it. U-oh, wallet, car keys, camera are in there. Gotta go back.

 

After summiting, we retraced our steps and rapped back to Broadway and then down Fields, eventually finding the pack 1500' below the drop site, and the attached water bottle (still intact and in my memento section) on the glacier 2000' below the drop site. The wallet and keys were OK but the camera was not surprisingly toast. In the meantime, our attempt to be below treeline by early afternoon to avoid storms had been derailed by the drop and lightning was starting to happen. Luckily none near us and we made the trailhead in time for happy hour

 

About 18 miles, 5000' vertical, and 800' of killer climbing.

 

Note: The route got its name when Charlie Fowler free solo'd it and when asked how it went, he said "casual". The original name was dumped in favor of the current name.

 

Chiefshead, Northwest Face, Birds of Fire (IV, 5.11a R)

 

 

The face with the route depicted from Mountain Project

 

Another early start. The eight mile approach was lenghthened by two miles because of a road closure but we were psyched for another car-to-car event. The approach was uneventful except for some steep annoying snow and a moat to get on the route. (I tolerate snow but love alpine rock). As soon as we were established on the wall, a marmot started racing up the glacier toward my pack. I tried air to ground defense with rocks but the snafflehound soon figured I was a poor shot and advanced. I figured my pack was going to suffer and we went on about the cimb.

 

This climb is primarily bolted, but it ain't no weinie roast. There are about 30 bolts in 8 pitches and full 200' 5.9 pitches have just a few bolts. Also, for 'dawg and ilk's information, nobody on earth except those cimbing the route can see the bolts. In fact, when on route you can't see them until 10' away and it is easy to get off route where you don't see them at all, in part due to trembling knees. Even hardcore trad folks have admitted it is a fine route.

 

Anyway crack and thought provoking face lead to a very thin crux move. Several pitches of thin, devious, and mind blowingly excellent face cimbing lead to an upper dihedral which is skirted on the left. The route is then rappeled. My pack, amazingly enough, just had one small chew hole in it. Thanks snaffle!

 

After walking out, we got on a tourist bus, stinky and with our packs jammed into the seat in front but with the biggest shit eating grins one could imagine.

 

Around 20 miles, 5000' vertical, 1000' climbing

 

Gear Notes

 

Casual

 

2 ropes and full alpine rack

take tool or sharp rock and butt-clench ability if taking North Chimney approach

MMA skills if belligerent hikers are encountered

don't drop the pack

if you plan on dropping the pack, keep keys and wallet on person

 

Birds

 

2 ropes, quickdraws, small rack

don't forget sunglasses (I did) cuz its light granite and catches sun

comfy shoes cuz its a long climb with a lot of thin face

 

These are two of the finest alpine walls in N. america. Go get some.

[JayB]

Sweet sends - admired both of those lines from easier routes nearby.

[matt_warfield]

Thanks Jay. Also got up Spearhead and Petit Grepon and some stuff on Lumpy. There is a ridiculous amount of rock in Rocky Mountain National Park and in Colorado in general.