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Posted

You mean the one that looks like the west face of Snowpatch, with all the crack and corner systems? The one Beckey wanted me to go in and do with him before he went off to the Adamants? that one?

 

shhhhhhh.....

I hear the rock looks good from a distance but is horribly loose wink.gif

Posted

I think Beckey had been trying to find someone to go put up a route on that face with him for the past year or so. Recently, however, there was a couple of dudes that gave some beta to him about it and said it was probably going to involve some difficult aid through a significant portion of it. He told me he has lost interest in it since hearing that. It is probably something worth exploring though. I haven't been up there myself. In general, I heard that the area has generally good rock.

Posted

We did the arete boardering the face a couple of years ago. Forget exactly what Kevin calls it in his guide, but Mike Down and I think John Howe put it up in the 80s. The face to its left looks pretty steep. Based on the arete, I think it would be worth pondering carrying at least one big cam (larger than #3 BD)

Nice area with a perfect bivi site on top of a HUGE flat rock.

GB

Posted

"There's loose rock"

"Lots of aid would be required"

"Tons of wide cracks"

"vegetated and mossy"

"I saw slings up there"

"Be prepared for lots of drilling or big runouts"

"Its a long way to hike for a five pitch route"

"Killer snafflehounds like the rabbit in Monty Python & The Holy Grail"

Sounds like a lot of people have this one on their lists?

Posted

Was in there on sunday and had a very close look at the west face of S. spire. Total choss, best to leave it alone. Every single corner system is full of dirt and shrubs once you get up into them, better stay off for your own safety! Oh, and the west ridge -- which I cant find a record of -- is heinous, that beautiful dihedral is actually a KB seam dripping with water!

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