[TR] North Sister - SW Ridge (standard) 9/12/2010

[JohnGo]

Trip: North Sister - SW Ridge (standard)

 

Date: 9/12/2010

 

Trip Report:

Dates: Sept 11-12, 2010

Team of 6

2 day climb

Pole Creek / Hayden Glacier approach to SW Ridge

 

Times: 2.5 hours from trailhead to high camp at 6,800 feet below Hayden Glacier (nice camping with water and comfy sandy ground here)

5:30am departure

5.5 hours to summit

5.5 hours to descend (yes, we were very slow)

2.5 hour hike out to cars

 

A competent and fit team of 3-4 people could make the ascent in about 3-4 hours from high camp and descend in 2 hours. (The scree skiing down the south facing bowl off the SW ridge is a superb way to lose about 1500 vertical feet in 10 minutes on the descent.)

 

Conditions: The late spring 2010 snow dump left a 45 degree plus 1 pitch snow traverse in a NW facing slope as a late season treat. In a normal snow year this steep snow would be long gone by now, leaving a casual stroll across steep scree and a romp to the top on low 5th class rock up through the bowling alley. Oh, one more spicy bit: the bit of precip over last week left 2-3 inches of powder over the whole upper mountain, turning the bowling alley 5.2 into mixed 5.2d. Not quite what we were expecting for a late season climb, but we had the beta and thus brought the gear to safely make it.

 

The snow traverse was pretty hard packed in the early morn before the sun hit it, but softened nicely around noon for better bucket steps. I suggest to faster parties trying this traverse with less snow pro: wait until after mid-morning to cross the traverse, to best make use of this yummy softer snow.

 

Gear: 2 knifeblade and 1 angle pitons placed for pro, very useful gear for this type of rock. Ice hammer used for traverse, along with 3 pickets and 1 screw.

 

Two 60 meter 8mm half ropes are perfect, no need for thick single ropes. We left 1 rope in place to protect the snow traverse and used 1 rope to lead and rap the Bowling Alley.

 

Pro for Bowling Alley: One ¾” cam in boulder in lower center of alley, then 1 double runner used to thread a chockstone about halfway up. If you are comfy climbing 5.6 or above in boots, then you can likely solo and downclimb the Bowling Alley without a rope. One more Bowling Alley tip: Scramble up ledges 30 feet to a large flat spot at base of the alley; this is a safe place for whole team to wait away from rockfall and leave packs.

 

Overall, this a was rewarding climb with some good folks with perfect weather. I hope some readers find the following route photos useful. See my gallery pages for full size images if you cannot read the photo annotations here.

 

My gallery link:

http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showgallery.php?ppuser=7651&cat=500

 

B'lay On,

John

 

South Sister from camp, note fresh snow

 

Early morning glow on the east face of Middle Sister. Note the uncommon early Sept fresh dusting of snow. It's a beautiful peak from this vantage point.

 

Daddy Longlegs: First light on the lower Hayden glacier

 

Looking down on 2 teammates from a cool perspective . . . nope it's not even close to that steep!

 

The climb team approaching the high point on the SW ridge, just before starting to head north towards the summit block. Middle Sister in background.

 

Summit area of North Sister, as seen from SW ridge approach.

 

This is the initial traverse below the summit block. With no snow like this, it's easy 2nd class terrain. When covered with snow this is a serious 45 degree plus traverse with a DFU runout! Note the fixed pin halfway across, it might come in handy.

 

This 1 pitch snow traverse was about 45-50 degrees, hard snow in the morning. I led it with an ice hammer, placing 3 pickets and 1 screw. Rope was fixed with pitons (2 knifeblades, 1 angle) on both ends.

 

Sarah leading the Bowling Alley. Note the most stylin' pink helmet. The unexpected snow dusting turned the 5.2ish rock into . . . more like 5.2d. Gear beta: One 3/4" cam in the boulder and a 4 foot runner farther up threaded thru a perfect hole in the rock, that's all you need. And yes, it's steeper in real life than it looks in this photo.

 

Edited September 14, 2010 by JohnGo

[warrior1515]

Nice work! Thanks for the report

[Lucky Larry]

nice, the traverse was not completely covered w/snow when I was up there sept 2 and looked too sketchy so I bailed.

[111]

Thanks! that is a really good description. The drawn on photos are a real help for anyone preparing for the route

[Toolman]

Nice TR! I am so jealous! My friend and I attempted it on the 9-11. We left the parking lot at 5:30am and took the Obsidion Falls trail to the Collier glacier. Weather was great, snow was great but we took too long and by the time we were on the traverse the snow was softening to a point that we felt it was unsafe and turned around. We were only 500 vertical feet from the top. We will try again in the spring, camping on the glacier instead of trying to do it in one day. Thanks for the great pics as well