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Posted (edited)

We were on Goat Wall in Mazama last weekend (sans guidebook) looking for the Methow route...found Sisyphus, but couldn't find Methow Inspiration. We ended up climbing a few pitches on a bolted route up the gully to the RIGHT of the infamous lone pine tree. We scrambled to near the top of the gully, climbed one pitch of 5.6-ish, then the route crossed the gully onto a steep(er) face for a short 5.7/8 pitch. The next pitch ~10 bolts felt 5.9. Can anyone tell me what we climbed? The number for Mazama mountaineering is out of order. Thanks.

Edited by SExNW
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Posted

Sounds to me like you were on the Inspiration Route, as it starts to the right of the lone pine tree. The grades you describe also fit the route - it goes up and gets steeper (about five pitches total as I remember).

Posted

Yeah, I agree and tried to convince myself of that, but our pitches/belay points didn't fit our topo at all (maybe topo is way lame? http://www.winthropmountainsports.com/inspireprint.html). There was no walking between belays (we only went up 3 pitches due to time constraints), and no detached block. Based on that topo, we were not on Inspiration, even if we scrambled up past the first pitch or two. Huh...hmmm...

 

thanks!

Posted

Even the topo in Burdo's old book "North Cascades Rock" does not match exactly. If you started at a low belayer's bolt to the right of the tree, you were on the route - then after 5-6 bolts you are at about 90ft, not quite the anchor chains. If you start out again from there it's about ten bolts to the next anchor, basically the top of pitch 2 on the topo's. Above that there is a short/small roofy area between pitch 3 and 4. You are right about the topo's lacking - I hope they are good for "Prime Rib" as I'd like to get that one done someday.

:tup:

p.s. I have never seen a detached block - it's probably gone

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