jre Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 Trip: Dorado Needle - Forbidden - Date: 7/24/2010 Trip Report: Aaron(Z-man) and I took advantage of stellar July weather for a memorable tour of the Cascade pass alpine. Our wanderings took us up Eldorado creek and on over to the McAllister glacier col above Marble cirque. We sent the Southwest Buttress of Dorado Needle, rested a second night at our high bivy, and traversed day three to the base of Forbidden(via benches above Moraine Lake). A carry-over on the Northwest Face brought us down the East Ledges to Boston Basin and out. Original plans were to also hit the West Arete of Eldorado, but three years on the California coast seems to have softened me a bit Overall, I was stoked to score four days of alpine bliss with my old partner in crime. The Dorado needle route was great fun and quality climbing overall. The carry over on Forbidden kicked my ass a bit; props to Aaron for picking up my slack for the last portion of the climb. We agreed that the route is a classic line on a very classic mountain, but that the quality of the climbing was spotty(highlights included solid climbing in the crux chimney, and a NR of Stuart-esque exposed ridge traverse down low). There was substantial objective hazard getting on the route, and partway up we watched a huge snowblock peel off the face and sweep a portion of the glacier we had ascended. Overall I’m glad we ticked this one off and wouldn’t turn people away, just a long and challenging route that doesn’t see a lot of traffic. July heat Epic bivy for a pair of nights Rackin' up for some good clean fun This voracious bastard held us hostage for two nights with all our shit piled on top of us in the tent Traversing over to the next objective A scenic and corniced high ridge on the way to Torment col Finally a view from the base of the route. Rounding the base of Torment involved two committing rappels into a sketchy twenty-foot deep moat. Wet class 5 climbing got us out of there. Next morning. Another exposed, sketchy moat problem to access the rib Lots of terrain to cover yet A chossy take on the North ridge of Stuart? Nice exposure down the face Later that day, enjoying the surroundings but smellin' the barn Great climbing, great weather, great company. What more could one ask for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 Wonderful TR, thanks and nice work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainsloth Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 wow nice work. thanks for the NW face pics I have been curious what it looks like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BirdDog Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 Sweet TR, with great pics. Thanks for posting! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.