Green Dragon Questions

[RJRiha]

I am planning on attempting to aid Green Dragon this weekend, and have a couple of questions about the climb.

 

I've heard that it takes more wide gear than a typical aid climb. How wide should I go with the gear? I would prefer not to lug the #5 in addition to the aid rack.

 

This climb looks appealing because of the bolted belays and the ability to bail if necessary. We have limited aid experience...are the C2/C2+ sections particularly tricky?

 

 

[tomtom]

The largest I carry is a #3 Camalot and that's probably optional. The aid isn't tricky but thin near the end of the second pitch.

[RJRiha]

The largest I carry is a #3 Camalot and that's probably optional. The aid isn't tricky but thin near the end of the second pitch.

 

Great that I don't have to lug bigger cams up. From the pictures I've seen, it looked like a fairly wide portion of crack above the big roof, and the topo I have says 4".

 

Thin should be fine; in that department we have a full set of ballnuts, two sets of brass nuts down the smallest, the three smallest WC zero cams, small offset TCUs, assorted nuts to #1 BD, camhooks, and a thin beak for hand-placing. I was more concerned with the possibility of having to hook old mank, inverted cam hooking, etc.

[counterfeitfake]

Been a while, but I thought I used a #4. I also think getting out from under the roof involves a fair amount of #3 crack, so it doesn't seem "optional". I could be remembering badly.

 

edit: The report says #4 AND #5...

Edited July 30, 2010 by counterfeitfake

[RJRiha]

Just read the report. What's so bad about the 6th pitch 4th class gully?

[counterfeitfake]

I think I disliked it because it feels pretty hard and is covered in pine needles and brush. Didja do it?

[fenderfour]

FYI - I've been up the route a few times now, and never needed a 4 or 5.

[RJRiha]

I think I disliked it because it feels pretty hard and is covered in pine needles and brush. Didja do it?

 

Got a late start and took a wrong turn on the upper wall trail (took a left and ended up above the upper wall). By the time we found the right trail, it was too late to entertain notions of shooting up the whole wall. The first pitch was tons of fun and very easy. It was my 3rd aid lead ever, and took me way too long (almost 2 hours). After shaking the cobwebs out, I started to cruise (could probably do it again in about an hour). Since there is such good pro on it, I'd be more comfortable with more moves on camhooks (they feel so solid when weighted). A little bonus though, at the top of the first pitch, I reached into the grass to stabilize myself to get out of the aiders, and I felt metal. I found booty! A damn near new condition Hybrid Alien!!! That's worth the trip by itself.

 

The second pitch is definitely an eye opener for an aid newbie, but nothing a few hooks and trust in small brassies won't solve. It never seemed like there were more than 2 moves between bomber placements. The guide calls this pitch C2/3; I'm definitely not one to accurately critique aid ratings, but with a fair abundance of good gear, I can't see this meeting the definition of anything more than C2.

 

Time was running short, so we bagged out. Next time I think I'll fix the first two pitches and attempt the rest the following day. If the first two pitches weren't too bad, should I expect to find the rest of the route to be fairly straightforward? The guide shows the remainder of the route to be mostly C1.

 

I'm excited to see this "easy 5th class" last pitch.

[stillcrankin]

 

 

Good on ya fer tryin'.

 

Can't remember what we used-knifeblades to 3" bongs, I think. Used some hooks and nuts, also. Put in a few bolts along the way....... The last pitch doesn't really stand out in my mind so it couldn't have been too bad.