Mt Triumph beta

[alpenho]

Anyone have info and/or recent photos of the North Face/cirque of Mt Triumph? Particularly interested if it is possible to descent from the col at the base of the NE Ridge and continue to Mt. Despair from there. Much appreciated!

 

[therunningdog]

I did this a couple years ago in late July. It was heinous. Last year went to despair via triumph pass...much better. Check out kearneys book for despair approach beta...

 

Tim

[Tony_Bentley]

The trip to Despair is shorter if you end up climbing Triumph and spending the night somewhere in the north side but getting back is gonna take a long time. Try it in 3 minimum but 4 days is more realistic. You shouldn't have any problem getting past Triumph.

[Dannible]

A fun way to get back there is to climb Triumph by the NE ridge, sleep on the summit, and head down the NW Ridge (pretty easy with a couple of raps down low) to Triumph Pass in the morning. The best bivy spots up there are about 50 or 100 feet from the summit down the NW ridge on the north side.

[alpenho]

Our plan is to get to the Mystery Ridge traverse via Triumph and Despair. We really want to do the NE ridge climb on Triumph, and if possible take skis for the rest of the traverse, taking advantage of the outstanding snowpack up high.

My thinking is that carrying skis over the summit might be slightly ridiculous (or would it?), so instead we would ascend and descend the NE ridge, then drop into the north cirque to traverse over to Triumph pass vicinity and on to Despair.

I can't find a lot of info about dropping from the base of the NE ridge into the north cirque, so I don't know if that would be feasible or sane.

 

[Off_White]

Word is that the descent from the NE Ridge notch to the N Cirque is pretty sketchy. I'm not sure if that means it was just dodgy unroped, or if there was no decent rappel option. You might check with John Frieh, it was a friend of his who had the first hand info (one of the same trio who climbed the N Face when I was in there on the NE Ridge).

[Dannible]

Yes, climbing Triumph with skis and boots on your back would be a bit much. Id say do the Triumph Pass route and hope for enough snow to make it a bit nicer.

[Tony_Bentley]

http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/CIMG0013_resize1.JPG

 

The photo clearly shows that Despair is a long ass way away.