ryanb Posted July 16, 2010 Share Posted July 16, 2010 I've done basically nothing on the upper wall (some of the single pitch stuff and flailing up Tempitcheous following a buddy) and am looking for some route recommendations for some trips up there in the next few weeks. Classic, oddball, recently scrubbed or rarely done and in need of a scrub are all fine as long as the climbing is fun. Probably won't hop on anything harder then 11b at the moment but if you have a favorite harder then that I'd love to hear about it (particularly if you can a0 the hard bits . 70 vs 60 vs 2x60/Rope length/rap beta etc would be great too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted July 16, 2010 Share Posted July 16, 2010 P1 Dana's Arch is awesome. Davis-Holland/Lovin Arms is uber classic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jshamster Posted July 16, 2010 Share Posted July 16, 2010 70m rope is fine. new anchor installed recently to rap DH/LA with one 70. routes: DH/LA, DGS, anything at earwax wall, heavens gate. pretty sure i heard that earwax is a bit dirty these days, but should be climbable, and clean up pretty easily. first pitch of DGS is kinda weird, but second pitch is a full rope length of super fun 5.9. probably need two ropes for this one, but i can't really recall. oh yeah, 1st pitch dana's arch is great as well. think the second got new free climbing bolts as well, but i've only aided it at A2+ or so on old ass mank fixed gear. upper wall is awesome! and cool temps are nice too. cheers jimbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallstein Posted July 16, 2010 Share Posted July 16, 2010 If you top out the cliff you can also easily walk over to Town Crier and rap with one 60m rope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwwakaranai Posted July 16, 2010 Share Posted July 16, 2010 We climbed "Everest Without Lycra 11b" a couple months ago and thought it was an awsome pitch. Doesnt see much traffic for some reason. Most of the bolts have been updated, check it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanb Posted July 20, 2010 Author Share Posted July 20, 2010 (edited) Thanks for the recommendations so far, we had a good day up there sunday. Looking over at the see of knobs in the waterfall area got me wondering what people's favorite knob pitches up there are. Any good recommendations for intros to upper wall knobs? Seem steeper then the stuff in the country/lower wall. Edited July 20, 2010 by ryanb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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