Glacier Peak info?

[dinomyte]

Anyone have a feel for snow level up on Glacier at the moment. I went a bit late last year and played around above White Pass.

 

Don't know too much about usual conditions, and this year has been wierd. Would I run into snow below the pass?

 

Anyone heading up this weekend?

[Dan_Miller]

I think there's no question that there would be significant snow still at White Pass. It is on the Cascade crest after all. And at 5378 ft. combined with the East trending White River valley it's likely there is about 36 inches or so at the present.

Edited July 7, 2010 by Dan_Miller

[5.12Dreamer]

Was up there this past weekend attempting the Gerdine Ridge route. On the NF Sauk approach you get into snow several switchbacks short of the PCT. Surprisingly. there are some snow free tent sites at White Pass.

 

In general, travel on the snow was good. Mostly penetrated only a few inches to boot top on rare occasions. The snow cover allows you to take the Beckey approach through the NER of White Mountain, then hold a traverse at 6400' all the way to the White Chuck Glacier. This way you avoid the elevation loss descending into the White Mtn basin or the longer alternate route (easier w/o snow?) from White Pass.

 

Snow free camping at Glacier Gap too. Very windy, however. We were thwarted by low visibility, navigating to the Gap in a total whiteout. Then optimistically climbing to 9000'in the whiteout the following morning. We would have kept climbing except for seeing signs of slab activity on the Disappointment Peak bypass. One of our party heard cracking and we observed a number of discontinuous fracture lines--time to turn it around. Didn't have time or the desire to persevere the high winds to attempt the DP direct route.

 

Best of luck if and when you make it out there.

[dinomyte]

5.12:

 

I appreciate the detail. This is exactly what I was looking for. I was able to get up there. It is melting fast; there are only a few little snow patches on the trail below White Pass. They may be gone by the weekend.

 

I camped on the dirt at Glacier Gap, and there was great running water there. Some folks there reported high winds the night before, but none on Saturday night.

 

Your info was right on the mark. I'll post a TR and pics later.

[Autoxfil]

So is it a safe bet to bring axe and no crampons for a solo of disappointment cleaver next week? TRs indicated soft snow, but things might cool down next week.

[dinomyte]

I posted a TR with some photos and route conditions. I would personally never recommend that someone leave crampons at home. Take them, then decide on the mountain whether you need them or not.

 

Your call of course.

[Autoxfil]

I assumed that would be the response. I imagine I'll bring them and not use them, but I guess it's better than missing the summit because I can't kick steps.

[dinomyte]

I brought them, felt the snow at camp on summit morn, and left them there.

 

You just never wanna say "leave them" and then read that the person took a header off a mountain!