mikeadam Posted June 28, 2001 Share Posted June 28, 2001 http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/sports/134307516_judd17.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted June 28, 2001 Share Posted June 28, 2001 How the hell does someone go about losing the tent and sleeping bags!!!! You'd think these would be a couple important items to keep track of. It's not like dropping the lighter in the snow. You think they might of went for the summit in a whiteout? Theats the only way I can concieve losing the tent. Californians... shit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted June 28, 2001 Share Posted June 28, 2001 I started to write a "what the hell, how do you lose the bags?" but keep in mind, the story in the mass media is rarely even an approximation of the actual events. Let's wait and see what their real story says. Anybody know these guys? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Posted June 28, 2001 Share Posted June 28, 2001 I've read a lot of Ron Judd's columns, and sometimes he's actually quite funny (esp when he goes off on Slade Gorton, aka Skeletor). But maybe he should have left this one alone (I wonder how long it's been since big Ron actually hauled himself up a mountain). Here's a prelim report, posted to rec.climbing by Bill Folk (PS- I'm not Bill, I'm Kyle, and I'm just passing on this report that I found ~6/18 on the rec.climbing newsgroup, where Bill is a frequent contributor. But thanks anyway to those who've sent me PM's wishing me a speedy recovery -K): ------------------------------------------- > I hope he posts an accident report. Will do. Thanks Greg for showing up, and thanks T, Dingus, Jens, Alistair, and everyone else for the support and good wishes. There will indeed be an ANAM report, and on the advice of Dunham Gooding, AAI director, I will be contributing to it. Family and friends have also demanded a written report, and maybe I'll post it here if there is interest. Perhaps no explanation is owed, but I certainly don't mind sharing information. I'll be happy to answer any questions - I'll be sitting around with my feet elevated for the next couple of weeks, so nothing better to do. Short cut to the expensive lesson learned: if you are going to attempt a committing route on a large, complex peak during a period of unsettled weather, you'd better have a good plan on how to get down if the shit hits the fan. Hint: following your boot track back down doesn't qualify. Some of you will say, "no shit". The initial news reports were based on spotty info and contained lots of inaccuracies - I guess that's what happens if you don't talk to the reporters. The short version: after stopping at AAI in Bellingham for current conditions beta, we approached the North Ridge on Thursday afternoon with a clear forecast for Friday and a storm due on Saturday, and bivied at about 5400'. We cached (not "lost") our approach packs/sleeping bags/bivy sacks (no tent), and began the climb at about 4:00 AM Friday (later than planned) with summit packs containing a gortex shell, 2L of water, a bagel, and a Clif bar each, and a space blanket, map, and compass. Near the top the weather deteriorated rapidly as the storm forecast for Saturday appeared a day early, and we decided to descend. We became lost on the descent in high winds, snow, and white out, and dug out a snow cave in a moat to take shelter and consider our options. We spent the next 4 nights in snow caves and crevasses between attempts to descend while snow dumped, wind howled, avalanche conditions reached insane, and visibility remained near zero. We ate snow and melted water in Nalgenes with our body heat, walking the thin line between hypothermia and dehydration. Nights were spent massaging our feet and shivering, until the third day when our feet finally froze. Then it was just shivering, which gets boring pretty fast. On Tuesday the weather abated, and we made a break for it. We began traversing down and to the east through hip-deep fresh snow, intending to intersect the North Ridge and follow it back down, or reach the Coleman Glacier. Visibility again deteriorated, and we continued our traverse. I can't adequately explain how it occurred, but at some point I noticed that our compass seemed to have done a 180, and although the sun was not visible, the brightest part of the sky appeared to be in what we had believed to be the East. The only explanation was that we had traversed around to the South side of the mountain. The only defense I can offer is that by this point we were thoroughly trashed by our ordeal. Shortly thereafter I recognized Railroad Grade. I had taken a glacier mountaineering class with AAI 10 years ago that based at that location, so I knew that it was close to the road, and that there was a reasonable possibility of an AAI group being camped there. So our arrival there was not _completely_ dumb luck. We soon heard voices, and spotted a tent. We walked (not "staggered" or "stumbled") into the camp, and asked if we could have some water, spare food if they had any, and if anyone had a cell phone so we could call our loved ones. We did not ask for a rescue (this in no way implies any lack of gratitude for the one that ensued). There's no way I could adequately express my gratitude to the AAI guides Dylan and Ryder for all they did for us, to the AAI clients who shared their medical expertise, food, clothing, and body heat, to the Bellingham SAR team (and all the other SAR teams that were apparently mobilized), to the Navy team from Whidbey, or the ER team at Skagit hospital to which we were airlifted. I can't begin to thank Dunham Gooding and Sheilagh Brown for all that they've done for us and our families throughout this ordeal. Finally, a great thanks to Dunham, Sheilagh, and AAI Operations manager Paul Rosser for the couple of hours they took from their busy schedules this morning to discuss the event with me, and to offer their advice and insights. I was treated and released with an abraded cornea from flying ice, and mild frostbite to my feet and fingers, but am rapidly on the mend. Anyway, it's good chance to get those Kauks resoled, cams reslung, and let that tendonitis heal a bit. James has more serious frostbite to his feet, but should recover fully. Bill [This message has been edited by Kyle (edited 06-28-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted June 28, 2001 Share Posted June 28, 2001 Ok, I take it back... that sucks! I guess it could happen to just about anyone. The lesson: don't go for the summit unless its bluebird??? Or don't forget that your not in California anymore Toto. Glad they made it out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeadam Posted June 28, 2001 Author Share Posted June 28, 2001 Good job staying alive Bill! It happens and it's kind of just the way it is sometimes. Hope your recovery is rapid and the sun shines on all your warm rock climbs. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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