City of Rocks - recs on guidebooks/site for beta?

[Kimberlee]

I have heard great things about the City of Rocks for a long time and am going there for the first time the Friday & Saturday of 4th of July weekend enroute to Utah. Excited!!

 

I've been trying to research which guidebook (or books) to get. (I'm moving to Utah just 3 1/2 hrs away so I plan on getting lots of return trips to use it/them). Sounds like the most detailed (and still in print) book that I've been able to find mention of is by Dave Bingham - City of Rocks, A Climber's Guide, at least the 2006/7th edition. But... reviews I'm reading say the descriptions sometimes don't even mention what length of rope you'll need (says a lot of climbs need 70 m or 2 ropes), to be careful to make sure u know if it's a mixed climb vs. sport so you don't run out leaving your pro with your belayer, and that the book isn't really clear if you'd need to bring pro to make an anchor at the top. A couple of people said they supplemented info by resarching online.

 

Any opinions on what's the best guidebook(s) for there? Any recommended sites for beta? I'm a pretty fair to middling climber compared to many people I see posting on here - hardest sport I've led has been 5.9 thus far (quite a few) except my one 5.10a last yr (yes, I know at a Hero's crag) - Chica Rapida - so I really DON"T consider myself in the 5.10a's yet to lead. Have learned trad but climb trad in lower grades than sport. So, I'm not looking for crazy hard or epic climbs, but wouldn't mind lugging a bigger book around with lots in my current range plus climbs for my skills to grow into.

 

Would sure love any tips/input/opinions!

[iain]

There is a copy of that book in the Ranger Station that has a ton of corrections hand-written in it, plus additional routes not listed in the book. Worth a stop to check it out.

 

City is great but just keep an eye on when the route was put up when you start pushing your grade limits. Also there are some epic slab climbs.

 

4th of July weekend you will be melting by 10am. Climb early then take a nap until 5pm

[Drederek]

I've been to the city 3 times now for 3-4 days per trip and have done just fine with Binghams guide. Its not perfect but it'll get you around and on plenty of good climbs. Its a bit of an adventurous area and I like hiking around, your results may vary.

[Kimberlee]

Sweeeet, thanks Iain! I will DEFINITELY buy a copy of that book then & swing by the Ranger station to look up corrections on climbs in my range.

 

Thanks for the heads up on best times to climb & avoid the heat -- so much different than the strategy I've been employing with this cool spring in western Washington. And about watching when routes were put up - so, are the routes put up more recently graded tougher or more chossy?

 

Wow - I see you are in Bend. That must be awesome to have Smith Rocks in your backyard! Been there once & on my list to go back to again. What a gorgeous setting & so many climbs for everyone ... plus the best smelling compositing toilets I have EVER been in! Mmm, cedar chips.

 

thanks again!

[Kimberlee]

I've been to the city 3 times now for 3-4 days per trip and have done just fine with Binghams guide. Its not perfect but it'll get you around and on plenty of good climbs.

 

Thanks, Drederek! I think I'm sold then! Especially knowing I can beef up it's beta how Iain said at the Ranger Station.

[iain]

The older sport routes tend to be harder for the grade and more sparsely bolted in general, something you'll find at a lot of older crags.

 

The ratings in general are fair, but at the 5.9-10 area there is a wider range. If you are a solid 5.8 gear climber there is a lot of stuff to do out there. There are plenty of cracks at that level and under. If you can get someone out there with you who leads 5.10 gear/5.11 sport there is a ton more to do.

 

[Kimberlee]

Gee, I didn't know that about older crags. So, maybe that's why Leavenworth's Castle Rock's ratings feel harder than other places... Thanks a bunch!

[Off_White]

Yes to the Bingham guide, no to the Falcon guide by Phony Tony Calderone.

 

Consider making the enjoyable hike to Area 51, I think there are six good lines in your range. Stripe Rock nearby has a decent 3 pitch 5.7 too.

 

It's also good to pay attention to FA party as well as the year it was put up. Kevin Pogue routes (like that one on Stripe Rock) are usually overbolted and a little soft for the grade, so feel free to play the hero on those lines.

[Kimberlee]

Area 51 and Stripe Rock? Just bought the Bingham book at Feathered Friends tonight - I will definitely look those up!! And thanks for the tips about Kevin Pogue routes. I am certainly still at a climbing level that I love the ego boost of playing the hero! While I still have to embrace being fair to middling - I just tell myself who am I to question the FA climbers -- I take the credit from the softer rating... and run!

 

Thanks a bunch!