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[TR] Quarterly Icicle Buttress Clmb - May 30th, 2010 - R&D 5/31/2010


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Trip: Quarterly Icicle Buttress Clmb - May 30th, 2010 - R&D

 

Date: 5/31/2010

 

Trip Report:

We spent Saturday night sprawled out at or near a secluded estate. The wind howled down Icicle Creek Canyon most of the night, wafting the smell of whacky weed towards us. I'm sure it was coming from the VW van parked a few hundred feet away. I chose to lay out the bivy directly downwind, which still afforded me some culpable deniability. Dave sprawled out on the trail and was trampled over till midnight. Carl brought a nylon house and snoozed soundly.

 

Dave and Carl hadn't met before and since we had a more committing climb planned for later in the season, R&D seemed like a good intro route. I was hoping to start up cocaine connection this time but the rock was cold and wet so we started up the standard way - or I should say, one of them since there seems to be a dozen ways to start this route. We each led a pitch or so, breaking up the long last pitch to avoid comminucation and rope drag issues. Not a soul on the route till we got back down.

 

Cocaine Connection was wet but viewing it from above, probably could have stepped over the wetness and avoided it at the top as well. Entry to the chimney was soaked and slippery for the first move or so but otherwise dry.

 

I caused Dave to trip over Carl's tent here

IcicleButtress_May2010_001.jpg

 

Carl coming up the first pitch

IcicleButtress_May2010_003.jpg

 

Carl near the top

IcicleButtress_May2010_004.jpg

 

Dave's ass

IcicleButtress_May2010_007.jpg

 

Carl

IcicleButtress_May2010_008.jpg

 

Yellow Jacket Dreamin

IcicleButtress_May2010_010.jpg

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