Colchuck NBC

[aphanumeric]

I'm looking for clarification on the NW face and summit block portion of the NBC route. I've read almost every trip report I could find and have found differing reports. It seems that some rope up for the final portion and other don't. Is it steep snow to the summit or is there a 30 ft. rock climb at the end? Thanks.

[goatboy]

Really depends on your routefinding at the top, and the snow conditions, but one should be able to avoid that steep rock if one tries hard enough (as I have in the past).

 

I've climbed the route 3 times and found very different conditions and slightly different ways to finish the last section each time.

 

Having said that, the snow couloir itself (on the north side facing the lake) is moderately steep in normal conditions, and the character changes when you reach the top of the couloir and are suddenly above the west shoulder. Here, you can see across Mtneer Creek valley to the flanks of Mt Stuart, and the west side of Colchuck Peak drops off precipitously to your right as you make your way up the NW side. I've soloed this part, or roped up and simul-climbed placing occasional rock gear in the boulders frozen into the slope.

 

It's reasonable to do the climb with a small assortment of rock gear, a light alpine rope, one or two tools depending on comfort on steep snow, and no more than a picket or two. The vast majority of the route, in normal conditions, subsists of moderately steep snow, though some sections are more exposed than others.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

Really depends on your routefinding at the top, and the snow conditions, but one should be able to avoid that steep rock if one tries hard enough (as I have in the past).

 

I've climbed the route 3 times and found very different conditions and slightly different ways to finish the last section each time.

 

Having said that, the snow couloir itself (on the north side facing the lake) is moderately steep in normal conditions, and the character changes when you reach the top of the couloir and are suddenly above the west shoulder. Here, you can see across Mtneer Creek valley to the flanks of Mt Stuart, and the west side of Colchuck Peak drops off precipitously to your right as you make your way up the NW side. I've soloed this part, or roped up and simul-climbed placing occasional rock gear in the boulders frozen into the slope.

 

It's reasonable to do the climb with a small assortment of rock gear, a light alpine rope, one or two tools depending on comfort on steep snow, and no more than a picket or two. The vast majority of the route, in normal conditions, subsists of moderately steep snow, though some sections are more exposed than others.

 

no pitons? (talking between now and early spring)

[goatboy]

I never found them to be necessary on the NBC, though I did carry them up there once. If you tried to place some en route, I'm sure you could.

 

Where did you find them to be necessary?

 

The rock on D-tail and Colchuck trends towards very compact, so there are some stretches with only paper-thin cracks that would perhaps take a knifeblade, though again, I felt that the route protected adequately with small-to-medium cams and a few stoppers.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

I never found them to be necessary on the NBC, though I did carry them up there once. If you tried to place some en route, I'm sure you could.

 

Where did you find them to be necessary?

 

The rock on D-tail and Colchuck trends towards very compact, so there are some stretches with only paper-thin cracks that would perhaps take a knifeblade, though again, I felt that the route protected adequately with small-to-medium cams and a few stoppers.

 

I haven't been up there this time of year. Some friends of mine mentioned that scramble is fairly exposed mixed terrain in April. Thanks for the info...

[goatboy]

There is definitely some appreciable exposure in a few sections of the route.

 

Firm styrofoam snow eases the anxiety, while sugary snow over rock can increase it!

 

In any case, it's a really good moderate route when in good condition, and a nice way to see a different side of the mountain from a nice high camp.

[aphanumeric]

Thank you very much for the info. I'm considering soloing the route and just wanted some clarification on that section since I don't mind the steep snow but don't want any rock climbing surprises 100 ft from the top.

 

Again, I appreciate the beta.