Nomic Grip Sizing

[PeakDream]

So I tested out my friend's nomics, they feel and climb GREAT! Only problem I have is the grip size. I don't have big hands, wear M on most gloves and the grips feel small (tight), so I overgrip a little. Does anyone have the same problem? My friend told me the handles are set to largest allowable Maybe they are not adjusted right or something.

[t_rutl]

I wear L/XL and with my BD Punisher as well as lighter softshell gloves the middle setting fits smooth. If you wear M in most gloves, even the smallest setting should feel ok.

[Dane]

Not an uncommon problem on first use. On a totally leashelss tool you will find you need much less glove than normal even in the coldest conditions. Nothing will blow your forarms faster than not having a good fit in the lower grip, btdt...and found it kinda scary and totally disheartening to be honest.

 

I wear a solid XL in gloves and use the mid point (there are three) for the bottom pommel on the Nomic.

 

But if I use my thickest cold weather gloves I can't get a full hand into the grip. So I use three fingers in and a finger over the ledge. Not the best use of the tool. One of the worst positions you can put your hand in for strength. My cold weather mittens are similar but actually have a little less bulk and more room so I can get a full grip inside the pommel..

 

But almost any of the newer lwt gloves work great, fit easily fully into the grip, set at the mid position. When I am doing hard bolted mixed (hafner ck for example) I'll tighten the grip and wear an even thinner glove. Just so I don't have to grip as hard to stay on the tool.

 

Tighter the adjustable grip on the tool is, the lighter the glove, the easier the Nomic is to climb difficult terrain with.

 

If you are coming from any tool besides another fully supported leashless rig takes a bit of use to learn to *hang* (almost like a hand jam on rock) from the tool instead of *grip* (more like a face hold rock climbing) the tool. Two totally different techniques in use. You won't be able to take full advantage of a Nomic until you develope that subtle bit of technique. It is also the Nomic's big advantage over almost any other tool available.

[PeakDream]

I wear L/XL and with my BD Punisher as well as lighter softshell gloves the middle setting fits smooth. If you wear M in most gloves, even the smallest setting should feel ok.

Really? Hmm... I have to double check the tools again. They feel OK, but just feel cramp as in tight space, not forearm.

 

Not an uncommon problem on first use. On a totally leashelss tool you will find you need much less glove than normal even in the coldest conditions. I wear a solid XL in gloves and use the mid point (there are three) for the bottom pommel on the Nomic.

My gloves are Kinco winter workgloves, not too thin and not too thick.

 

But if I use my thickest cold weather gloves I can't get a full hand into the grip. So I use three fingers in and a finger over the ledge. Not the best use of the tool. My cold weather mittens are similar but actually have a little less bulk and more room.

My hands aren't big enough to have that problem

 

But almost any of the newer lwt gloves work great, fit easily fully into the grip, set at the mid position. When I am doing hard bolted mixed (hafner ck for example) I'll tighten the grip and wear an even thinner glove. Just so I don't have to grip as hard to stay on the tool.

Tighter the adjustable grip on the tool is, the lighter the glove, the easier the Nomic is to climb difficult terrain with.

If you are coming from any tool besides another fully supported leashless rig takes a bit of use to learn to *hang* (almost like a hand jam on rock) from the tool instead of *grip* (more like a face hold rock climbing) the tool. Two totally different techniques in use. You won't be able to take full advantage of a Nomic until you develope that subtle bit of technique. It is also the Nomic's big advantage over almost any other tool available.

I started leashless with the black diamond viper (orange one). I think I know what you talking about, but it just seems they are smaller than most of the tools out there.

 

Just to be clear, it's not just the top to bottom of the grips, also how skinny the grips are compare to other tools. I'll see if I can mess around a little bit more if he lets me use them.

[Dane]

it's not just the top to bottom of the grips, also how skinny the grips are compare to other tools.

 

Ah, missed that originally. Yes smaller grip dia. allows you to expend less effort to hold on. Think of doing pull-ups on a 12" dia. pipe or a 3/4" dia. pipe. So that part was intenetional by Petzl. Same reason a Cobra's shaft is smaller than a Viper and Viper's is smaller than a Reactor.

 

I use a Viper's grip differently than I use a Nomic's grip fwiw.

 

Med hand, thin gloves? You should be climbing with the Nomic on the smallest grip setting.

 

 

[fultonville]

As Dane can confirm I have pretty big hands and still really like my Nomics. Also, I have the grip extended to the end and they fit my hands way better than the new BD Fusions ever did.

 

As far as gloves worn I've had on pretty much every glove OR makes for dry tooling and thereabouts as well as the Arcteryx Gamma SV glove (which runs a touch smallish by the way) and never had a problem.

 

Hope that helps.