[TR] Vancouver Island, BC - 2/1/2008

[climbercam]

Trip: Vancouver Island, BC -

 

Date: 2/1/2008

 

Trip Report:

A few people have requested some more trip reports from Vancouver Island, so I thought I'd put together something with info about the top climbing areas. I hope this fits within the criteria for a trip report.

 

So on this map I've marked the 3 main cragging areas with colored dots.

Red = Horne Lake Crags (Limestone)

Black = Crest Creek Crags (Basalt)

Purple = Comox Lake Crags (Basalt)

 

 

I'll start from the top and tell you a bit of information and beta for each place.

 

1. Horne Lake

 

Horne Lake is a limestone mecca. Closest to the Nanaimo ferry terminal, so popular with some of the mainland crowd. Before I go too far into detail I'd like to add that the access here is very touchy. The official status of the area in the past is closed, however, in the last couple years there have been no issues. Nevertheless, please keep the noise down, park respectfully, and no camping.

 

Horne Lake has climbing from Mid 5.10's to 5.14c at the moment. The Ampitheatre has fixed draws on almost all routes. There are also numerous single and multi-pitch routes on the surrounding faces. (You can donate to the bolt fund at the climbing gym in Nanaimo) The Area is developed by a few individuals from both the north and south island. Thanks for their efforts!

 

This is the main climbing area at Horne, including the Ampitheatre.

 

 

Climbing in the Ampitheatre: (This was Feb. 1st by the way)

 

 

2. Comox Lake

 

Comox Lake is Basalt, located at the east end of Comox Lake. Nearest town is Cumberland (mid island). The development has been done mostly by the Waters Brothers and numerous other locals. Many Thanks! (Guidebooks can be bought from the local gear shop, and the bolt fund is there also)

 

There is everything from 5.5s to 5.12's. Trad, Aid, Sport, and even some bouldering...

 

A couple pictures:

 

Some multi-pitch above the lake

 

 

Pop Goes My Weasel (5.11c)

 

 

 

3. Crest Creek Crags

 

Crest Crags is one of the most developed climbing areas in B.C. This is all thanks to the Heathens Mountaineering Club. Their countless hours of labor haven't gone un-noticed.

 

Crest Creek Crags (locally referred to "Crest") has a multitude of routes, on many high quality walls spread around a dip in the Gold River highway. The Basalt here is of very high quality and the amazing cleaning has produced many memorable routes.

 

Trad, Aid, Sport, solo circuits, and even some bouldering(if you look hard) is to be found. Grades from 5.4 to 5.12, A0 to A3+. Topos can be bought at the climbing gym in Campbell River (north island) All proceeds go towards route maintenance and new-routing.

 

Picture Time!

 

Thrashing in the warm and wet on an aid route

 

 

Easily one of the most beautiful places in B.C.

 

 

 

Hope you enjoyed that. That was just 3 places on the island. Other places include:

 

Nanaimo River

Morton Lake

Nomash Slab

& Many More!

 

Drop me a message if you'd like more information or some route beta.

 

Cheers!