[TR] Mt. Rainier Area - Skookum Falls-Center/Right 12/14/2009

[jpark42]

Trip: Mt. Rainier Area - Skookum Falls-Center/Right

 

Date: 12/14/2009

 

Trip Report:

Dane and myself decided to check out Skookum Falls and see what it looked like. Boy what a treat. The falls where completely in which allowed us to actually climb WA ice for the first time of the season. Here are the pitch notes and pictures

 

P1:Started center right climbing WI3 to a ledge about 50m up.

P2:Kept in the center of the route and climbed hero ice, WI3, about 30m.

P3:At this point we traversed right because their was still significant water coming down the center of the fall. This was the crux of the route. 15m of solid WI4+, with the emphasis on solid the ice was rock hard, led to a ramp and 45m of easier climbing, WI2/3.

P4:A short pitch but not to be taken lightly. Pick your way through hollow and mushroom ice to the top of the falls (5m). From a here a short vertical section of ice,rock, and turf(4m) leads to easier ground and tree belay at the top.

 

Two happy campers on top of pitch 2:

 

Me finishing up pitch 3:

 

Top of pitch 4:

 

Frozen Turf/Log Crossing decent:

 

 

Quick note about the decent: The WA Ice guide suggests rapping from trees. I spotted a gully climbers right. A little frozen turf down climbing, I suggest keeping your crampons on, got us back to the trail without even taking out a rope. With out snow this decent is far easier then repelling. Plus you get to check out some scary/cool ice lines on the right side of the gully.

 

Gear Notes:

4 14inch screws

4 16inch screws

Cordage and spare runners especially if you plan on rapping.

 

Approach Notes:

The first section of river we were able to throw a log over and cross. This gets you to the island. From the island head up stream, climbers left, until you see the ice damn/frozen logs. I suggest you grab a stick for balance and throw on your crampons cause falling in the river is not an option here.

PS: Our first log crossing was destroyed by some rednecks while we were climbing, a pox on those bastards. On the way out we just hope/jumped through this section of the river as it is pretty shallow. I suggest some one grab a BFL, big fucking log, and rebuild this crossing if you head out there.

Edited December 15, 2009 by jpark42

[mountainsloth]

Yeee Haww! nice work Jeremy

[dan_e]

Just want to first give props to JP since this was his first multi-pitch ice climb and he got the full on experience.

 

I attempted it last season, but bailed 2/3 of the way up. It's in way better shape this season, no BS snice! It's not fat, but it's "in" for sure.

 

Not to much to add really, although there is no WI 2 ice on this route as described (he's still learning). Depending on your line expect at least WI 4 with sections/pitches of 3/3+.

 

We pitched the 200m out into due to wetness avoidance and me being short a couple of screws. The climb is very wet in spots so trying to keep the ropes dry was a top priority. The good thing is that we ended up getting on some hard/steep sections. The climb is in solid WI 4 shape, feeling a bit closer to 4+ for the line we took. As JP mentioned the top was very interesting climbing on fragile tubes, mushrooms, etc. It was one of the most amazing top outs that I've even done on an ice climb here in WA.

 

The approach is just a bit upstream from the parking lot (towards Crystal) after crossing the first braid. This is where JP described how our log was moved. We assumed it was some idiots that moved it, but there is a chance that it was washed down stream.

 

We will post an overall shot soon (Jeremy?).

[jpark42]

Weird I thought I posted it. Here is the overall.