Urquart? Illusions?

[dberdinka]

Hey Dru (or anyone else) what do you know about these peaks? The rock looks excellent (from a distance) but I'm of the impression the approaches now suck. Have I heard something of a grade VI on Urquart? Fill me in...routes? beta? I'm bored.

Thanks

[Dru]

the Urquhart route was put up by Max De Jong, it goes at 10a A3 22 pitches, but would go free at 10c allegedly, but right now there is a grade VI bush wack through 20 year old aldered over logging roads to get there. thats why km didnt uinclude it in alpine select. lots of ppl turning around at sight of bush and also Spuzzum Creek bridge is washed out ~10km from the peak and hard to cross river. might be better trying to go in from Cogburn creek N of the settler and cross over the Se ridge. but that side is steep!!!! like around rexford.

illusions - plan on 5 hr bushwack from the valley floor to get to base of the routes. best way now is head straight up to the illusion cirque from the valley some low 5th class rock steps hidden in the trees, forget that traverse over disillusion notch that is bunk, more 20 yr old alder thickets. routes supposedly quite good though. dont think aything new has been done since 1992 or thereabouts so Beckey guide has all the beta.