[TR] Crown Mountain, The Camel - Widow Maker Arete 8/31/2009

[DougBrownVancouver]

Trip: Crown Mountain, The Camel - Widow Maker Arete

 

Date: 8/31/2009

 

Trip Report:

The first time we climbed this route it was in a complete white out, we accidentally skipped the first 4 pitches and climbed it in the path of least resistance mode (since we couldn't see anything) and had very few moves of 5.9 climbing. This time it was a beautiful day, we managed to find the start of the route and managed to find several short sections of nice sustained 5.8, 5.9 climbing. At the final headwall we explored right instead of left and climbed what we assume is a nice variation of the route described in Alpine Select. The right hand side of the final headwall has some stunning steep cracks (there is an off-width to chimney size left facing split pillar that we didn't climb but looks amazing). Having done no research we called our previously climbed and probably previously named variation "Where's Widow." Dru will probably be able to give us the actual name of route given by the first ascentionists.

 

First 2 Pitches

 

Top of Pitch 1

 

5.8 Step

 

Approaching the 1st Headwall

 

2nd and Final (Crux) Headwall

 

Bottom part of Final Headwall

 

P1 of Where's Widow Variation

 

Camel Summit

 

Crown Summit

 

Gear Notes:

Alpine Rack, 60m rope.

 

Approach Notes:

Climb the grouse grind and traverse to Crown Pass then drop into Hanes Valley and traverse to the base of the route or climb up the Hanes Valley trail from the Lynn Headwaters Park (see Alpine Select approach notes).

 

 

[G-spotter]

Hey Doug, the offwidth/chim you mention on the north face of the Camel has definitely been climbed before as a finish to the NE slabs - not sure about some of the other cracks

[LostCamKenny]

That looks exciting... wow! How was it in winter during the whiteout - besides white?