Direct belay over edge with auto-block - opinion

[SplashClimber]

Would this work just as well with a friction device (aka auto-block device, examples: BD ATC-Guide, Petzl Reverso line etc.)?

 

 

My guess is not too well, because with friction device you would need to have the master point alot higher to be able to milk the rope through the device? And so the Grigri works well in this situation because angles & height do not matter (a question?!)

[catbirdseat]

I used my ATC Guide in autoblock mode on a slab climb and it was okay, but as I recall, I had to bend over a lot.

[LostCamKenny]

I used my ATC Guide in autoblock mode on a slab climb and it was okay, but as I recall, I had to bend over a lot.

I'm in complete agreement with cbs... as the angle of the climb decreases so does the comfort of the stance required to belay in that way. On a slab with the guide I belay off my harness with the rope running through a directional piece so the weight doesn't come directly on me.

[letsroll]

It would work but you would be bending over a lot. Just belay off your harness and redirect through directional.

[LostCamKenny]

It would work but you would be bending over a lot. Just belay off your harness and redirect through directional.

 

The only thing, here, is that you lose the autoblocking ability of the device by belaying off your harness... but certain situations require very different techniques.

[letsroll]

Yes you do but your back will be much happier. I end up just being bent over for the entire pitch. I use to use my autolock on everything, but lately I have been using it only on harder routes where the climber will be moving much slower.

[johndavidjr]

I've used knotted set-ups remotely like you illustrate, but realized they were a bit weird and backed off somewhat.

 

You mention the Grigi.

I've never really learned to use them. They seem weird, heavy and expensive, to say nothing of a bit complex.

 

Have used Munter hitch a fair bit. Virtue is simplicity and effectiveness vs many other devices. Mostly I've been on 2-3 pitch routes, where potential rope tangles aren't a terribly major issue.

 

There IS means of dealing with Munter that minimizes problem, though I've got only a 50-50 chance of getting it right.