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Posted

Yes, easy to bivy on top, but the bivy ledge a pitch and half above the notch is one of the more sublime places I've slept - big flat ledge, ring side view of the pickets, and even a snow whale on one edge. Of course, after the last couple weeks, there may be no snow there anymore.

Posted

Totally unlike myself, "Off_White" does seem to be a highly experienced and reliable source of information. I'd pay attention to what he says.

 

That said, I passed by Triumph's northeast ridge seven or eight years ago, and don't recall any nice ledges above the 5.whatever crux area that is fairly high on route.

 

It's quite likely I passed a nice ledge or two without it registering in the now rather distant memory, due to summit fever...All I remember was the slightly extensive and slightly spooky but somewhat low-angle heather slopes.

 

Still, if you're looking for something totally obvious, like those tiny spots above snow gully on Forbidden's West Ridge route (like with rock bivy walls) you might be disappointed (or not) on Triumph.

 

It's not all that extremely far down from summit to the lower part of ridge, where I dimly do remember some rather quite lousy bivy sites. But it's pretty far, and at that point you might just simply make it back across to the

"normal" base camp.

 

 

 

 

Posted

I might be wrong, but it seems like the summit area was pretty casual and one could sleep there. You're right though, there is certainly no built bivy corral like at the Forbidden west ridge notch, Stuart north ridge notch, or the summit of Goode, and the area between the wide crack and the summit doesn't offer any kind of cadillac accommodation like that lower bivy ledge.

 

Posted

The lower bivy ledge rocks. we did it in 2 days and slept there. It's at the start of the ridge where the scrambling/climbing starts. Just exit the glacier and 3rd class it up some towers. I'd recommend that over schlepping all your stuff to the summit. good luck!

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