[TR] Washington Pass - Prime rib and south arete 7/26/2009

[mzvarner]

Trip: Washington Pass - Prime rib and south arete

 

Date: 7/26/2009

 

Trip Report:

At last minute Jess calls me and says his plans for Shuksin fell thru and wanted to know what I had planned. I had been wanting go see Prime Rib and finally check out the Liberty Group. Rolled up to PR around noon on saturday. We made good time catching and passing a party of two and a party of three on the fourth pitch in abou tan hour and a half. Weather began rolling in so the race was on. Lightnig was rolling all over to the west and rain was every where. We waited, it stopped, we continued. "Summited"in about 4.5 hours, then decided to try some simul-raps off. They are rad and fast. Did the whole route car to car in roughly six hours.

 

Camped at Blue lakes, got up at 5, on the trail by 6. 1.5-2 hours later we were at the base of SEWS. We protected the first and second pitch then decided it was easyier and faster to just simul climb. Took in some coils and carried on. The slab with the bolt was cool, then crossed over the SW couloir to the summit and saw a goat, he freaked and ran down the couloir. we then simul climbed down and did three simul raps and went home.

 

Weather was great over all. Amazing climbing. It was easy but we put on some good miles on the rock and saw some awsome veiws from washington pass.

 

Gear Notes:

Prime rib

 

Bring a mix of exdendable draws and normal "sport" draws. Guide book says total of 15. I think 20 works well for linking Pitches. Stash a few PBR's in the river by the turn off so the are nice and cold when you get down.

 

SEWS

 

Small rack if. single set of nusts and cams to 3. We did a different start on accident, so in all honestly we only needed to protect the first pitch becasue of that. if you do it right, then leave tha rack at the care and simul the whole thing.

 

Approach Notes:

Prime Rib

 

Short and steep. Its kind of like skiing when coming down with all the loose rock.

 

SEWS

 

A little longer gets steep and i hate the mosquitos. But its all worth it. The avi debri was pretty cool to. those pack some power.