[TR] Alpine Lakes - Ingalls traverse? 7/17/2009

[shaoleung]

Trip: Alpine Lakes - Ingalls traverse?

 

Date: 7/17/2009

 

Trip Report:

Ingalls has got to be one of the best short-approach, alpine environments in the region. Beautiful. I keep going back. This time to attempt a traverse from Stuart Ridge back to Ingalls ridge.

 

We decided to try the Dyke Chimney route up the East side of the east peak. We ascended the Dyke Chimney to the foot of the snow. The snow was in poor shape and we decided to traverse up the left side. We scrambled and climbed past some class 4 and a few class 5 sections. We passed a lot of tat and bail biners. Eventually we were stopped short of the ridge crest by a short gendarme of unprotectable class 5 climbing. We tried to get around by rapping on the snow and bearing right, then center, but nothing appeared to go. Methinks the FA in 1960 might have had 30 or 40 feet more snow, even in October.

 

Has anyone successfully climbed this route recently?

 

We retreated and headed for the East ridge of the N. Peak. Roped up around 6:45pm and swung leads through the scrambles, topping out at about 9:45pm after running 9 pitches!

 

We bivvied near the top of the South slabs. A windy, cold night. By morning, we were chilled to the bone but rewarded with an incredible sunrise and crystal clear morning views of Glacier, Adams, Rainier, Denny, Shukson, Baker, etc.

 

We rapped the slabs and scrambled the South Peak.

 

After assessing the ridge between the South ridge of the South Peak, we decided the beer in the cooler at the parking lot was more enticing. We descended and headed for ice cold IPA.

 

I love it. I can hardly think of a better way to spend a weekend than exploring the mountains with friends.

 

Gear Notes:

With little snow, light-weight approach shoes are fine. We brought ice axes, but hardly used them.

 

If you try the Dyke Chimney, bring your rock shoes and balls bigger than ours. (Maybe some pitons?)

 

 

 

Approach Notes:

Almost all snow is gone from the area.