[TR] Prusik Peak - West Ridge 07/03/2009

[Raoul]

Trip: Prusik Peak - West Ridge 07/03/2009

Date: 7/3/2009

 

Trip Report:

My partner Bonita and I went in to the Enchantments over the long Independence Day weekend and climbed the West Ridge of Prusik Peak. As usual, we thought we could maybe do some other climbs while we were back in there (High Priest and Mt Temple were my thoughts) but the approach and main climb pretty much wiped us both out.

 

We stayed up late Wednesday night packing (I hate to pack and always put it off for far too long). We left Olympia early Thursday morning. After picking up our permit, we started at the trailhead at 10:30 which put us climbing up Aasgard Pass in the heat of the day – it was hot. By the time we reached the top we were ready to set up camp and decided to stay there instead of moving closer to the climb. We found a good camp site with beautiful sunset views.

 

Friday morning we took the standard trail from camp to Prusik Pass where we found a great tree to hang our packs (away from the goats) and did the climb with only bum bags, a few extra clothes, first aid kit, water, etc. We left our boots in our packs as other recent trip reports let us know we didn’t need them for the traverse back. After scrambling over one hill and then up the next, we were at the balanced rock were we roped up.

 

We climbed two pitches to the ridge, did a short pitch up the 5.7 slab, and set up a belay just around the exposed corner in the big wedge. I had done this climb several years ago and remember how bad the rope drag and communication was on this pitch when we stretched it out to a full rope length. The belay mid-way made things much easier. The crack, flake and chimney section to the top is some of the most fun and varied climbing I think I’ve ever done.

 

We must have hung out on the summit for over an hour. It was such a nice warm day with so little wind. A few mosquitoes even followed us to the top.

 

We met another couple that followed us up the route. They were very nice people and we decided to share our ropes so we could do double rope rappels. There are stations set up for single-rope raps if needed but the doubles saved time. It took us three rappels (the last one could have been a single-rope) to get down to the well worn traverse trail back to our stashed gear.

 

On the traverse back, somehow, Bonita’s camera fell out and went sliding, then cart wheeling about 40 feet below the traverse trail. I saw where it landed and was amazed that I didn’t see parts of it flying off on the way down. It was pretty banged up but as I scrambled down to get it, I thought we could at least get the memory card with her photos. But hey, it still works! We are both sold on Canon cameras and now even more so.

 

We took a high traverse back to camp (suggested by the other couple who were camped near us). This saved all the elevation loss and gain of the standard trail but Bonita and I got a little off route on the way so it didn’t really save us any time. We eventually got back to camp in time to eat dinner and catch the tail end of another great sunset and watch the moon rise over Little Annapurna.

 

We packed up the next morning and had an uneventful hike back out to the trailhead. Our permit lasted another night but we decided to leave early so we didn’t have to sit in traffic on Sunday evening coming home. After dinner and beer in Leavenworth, we drove home and watched various fireworks along the nearly empty freeway on Saturday night.

 

This trip had it all. A great climb with perfect weather and an even better partner. This has to be one of my favorite climbs ever so far.

 

 

Gear Notes:

Medium Rack

Nuts

Cams .5 to 3

No Ice Ax or crampons needed

 

 

Approach Notes:

Get an early start to camp and avoid climbing Aasgard in the heat of the day.

Edited July 7, 2009 by Raoul

[denalidave]

Nice! Since you did not post any pics, here are a few from our trip up Prusik W Ridge a couple weeks ago.

 

I left my camera on the roof of my car after our trip. I knew I should not have but I was so tired and was just closing the hatch back. Sure enough, I spaced it and did not realize it for another 15-20 minutes. I went back and found the case on the road but no camera in sight. Bummer, as I had just bought it before our trip. Lucky for me, a good sole - Andrew found it on the road and tracked me down through the ranger station. He said "the pics were so good, I could zoom in and read your backcountry permit... However, the permit was turned around so I could not read your names..." THANK YOU ANDREW!!!

 

What a great area! Can't wait to go back and do the South Face.

 

 

 

 

[spotly]

Good TR. I'll keep that Prusik Pass tree in mind for next time. From the end of the raps, we traversed directly horizontal back to the start of the route. Hardly any elevation lost. I thought that was the standard way

 

denalidave, that's a great story about getting your camera back.