CBR conditions.

[Sol]

Been getting a few inquiries about the area.

 

Last friday, Geoff Cecil and I braved the 50% chance of thunderstorms to take a run up the "Astroman of Leavenworth", the W face. I had noticed it looking unusually dry for this early in the summer.

 

Approach gully has a bit of snow, but it actually makes travel a bit faster and is kinda nice. Long corner pitch is 99.98% dry, Roof traverse is wet, but freeable. The nut usually in place on the next pitch is gone, not a problem for free climbing, but could pose a problem for aiding, I can't remember what size, but I think it's a tiny BD steel nut. The descent is half scree, half snow, never plunge stepped in rock shoes before, but it worked pretty good. No running water in the basin yet, but there is near the top of the gully.

 

I had never done that boulder problem to the top of the balanced rock before, pretty cool!

[Alpinfox]

 

Awesome Sol!

 

Did you throw a rope over the summit block or just go au naturel?

 

Any pictures?

[Sol]

We threw a rope over, that would be a bit sketchy to downclimb. My pictures suck, but Geoff might have some.

[Blake]

Nice Sol and Geoff!

 

Astroman man of L-Town is Hyperspace, right?

 

I think the traditionally in-situ nut is a BD #3 or equivalent.

 

Way to crush on the wet traverse, but the real crux beta would be: how do you keep your rope from getting stuck in that little lip on the roof?