Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Trip: Mount Shuksan - Sulphide Glacier

 

Date: 5/25/2009

 

Trip Report:

I hope ya'll like pics!!

 

With an actually favorable forecast for Memorial Day decided to brave the crowds for an ascent of Shuksan. To our pleasant surprise we found solitude. As we descended from the summit there wasnt a sole in sight.

 

Left the car Sunday mid-afternoon. The snow started about a mile or so into things but was nice and consolidated and made good time onto Shannon Ridge. At that point it quickly turned to sluff and was a post-hole trek up the notch and onto the Sulphide.

 

shuksan2.jpg

 

Although Baker was on quite the display!

 

shuksan3.jpg

 

As evening crept in we found ourselves with spot for the tent, some alpenglow and a view of the summit.

 

shuksan5.jpg

 

shuksan7.jpg

 

Set up our bivy, melted snow for H2O, packed down some calories and crashed for what was more of a catnap around 11:00. The alarm buzzed at 1:00 am and after some breakfast, shortly thereafter we were off. The snow was firm and we cruised to base of the summit pyramid in a smidge over 2 ours.

 

shuksan8.jpg

 

Took 15 or so to refuel and up the couloir we went. Word had it that things were nasty by mid-morning so I was eager to get up and down and as far into the descent as we could before then. As the sun rose the N. Cascades put on quite a show and Baker gleamed.

 

shuksan11.jpg

 

shuksan12.jpg

 

Steps were good up the couloir minus a couple sections where an previously attempted ski descent wiped them out. Booted up pretty smoothly for the most part. Followed some steps to the right which dead ended costing about 45 min but if that's it for problems not a bad day! The snow got thin in a spot or two so set up a belay on an outcropped rock...but conditions were quite nice over all.

 

shuksan18.jpg

 

shuksan17.jpg

 

Quick pose for the summit shot then down and out!

 

shuksan_troy1.jpg

 

shuksan_troy2.jpg

 

Great time to be out and how about the vis?!?!

 

shuksan20.jpg

 

Gear Notes:

Ice Axe, Crampons, pickets (never placed), slings (used once), SUNSCREEN!!, iPod for the slog out, snowshoes would have been nice when things where more firm but would have been useless for the plunge stepping out

 

Approach Notes:

Good boot pack all the way up. Snow starts a mile or so in but is melting at a rapid rate. From the notch to the Sulphide, soft slides ABOUNDED and you have to traverse right in the thick of them. Be aware...

  • Replies 5
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted
Headed up there early tomorrow morning. What were you able to use for pro on the pyramid?

 

didn't set any but for a sling around a well positioned rock on a sketch spot...there were deadman pits where pickets have been set but I didn't lay any...we just simulclimbed it for efficiency

 

but the snow is still good enough for pickets so that'd prob be your best bet

 

good luck and lemme know how she treated ya!

Posted

we hoofed it outa there onto the ridge in about 2 1/2 hrs...the snow was good though...once on the ridge is when the fun started...3 hrs of post-holing across it, up over the notch and onto the Sulphide...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...