[TR] Mt Thielsen - West Ridge (Standard) 4/26/2009

[rocky_joe]

Trip: Mt Thielsen - West Ridge (Standard)

 

Date: 4/26/2009

 

Trip Report:

Another week of this college stuff gone, and despite a mountain of homework to tackle, both Craig (cemmes) and I decided that an actual mountain may be a little more manageable. I had done Thielsen in the summer once before and Craig once in the spring, conditions looked fantastic so we jumped at the idea of a little excursion to the hills.

We arrived at the parking lot right around 1am, having left Eugene around 10:30. Needless to say we got one of those super long nights of sleep us college students are known for. The alarm rudely awoke us at 3:30 and we were "soon" up and readying. All our shit packed, racked, and stowed we began the approach (which turns out is all but the last 200 ft of the climb now. A little temporary confusion as to where the goddamn trail markers were, as well as where the wanker whose bootpack we had some loose loyalty to was headed. In the end we agreed to "fuck it and head up hill that way." It worked more or less, yay. Putting us just climbers right of the ridge.

A few more steps (some of the rest ones) and we were at the climb. Didn't bother to put on the 'pons since we seemed to bet getting enough purchase on the bomber snow without, and it was only 100' that would have merited using them.

Having decided before the climb that we would pitch out the summit block, we roped and racked up. Craig jumped on the lead (and I was all to eager to let him have it.) The climbing was straight forward, 4th class at the most and Craig made quick work of it. I seconded and did likewise. At the rap station (thanks to whoever slung that this year, it was nice) we unroped, high fived and began the last few steps to the summit.

Craig took a few photos of me on my second and stowed the camera. It turns out that much like locking biners needing to be locked to be locking, zippered pockets must also be zipped for the zipper to take effect. One step above the rap station the camera fell out of Craig's pocket and into God only knows where. *explanation for absence of photos* So there are no photos, but there is a Camera somewhere on Thielsen for any who are brave enough to go off route far climbers left. We looked for the camera to no avail.

At the base of the pinnacle we put on the crampons for the descent (fantastic choice). The walk down was straight forward and went with ease. We were back in the car within a few hours.

Blue bird skies, fast, hard snow and a short fun climb made for a fantastic Sunday, now to conquer that homework mountain.

 

**Powderhound...you asked...there's no ice anywhere on the pinnacle. woulda posted photos but gravity had other plans (see above).

 

Gear Notes:

Small Alpine Rack, Axe, Crampons.

 

Approach Notes:

3/4 the climb. Fast snow and some route finding.

[Frikadeller]

Sweet!!

[WageSlave]

Awesome! Too bad about that camera though. Looks like you two are getting out a bunch already this spring.

[rocky_joe]

hell yeah i'm getting out. it's my first full season in the mountains and i'm way stoked to get out every damn weekend, plus i can't stand to waste a weekend like normal college fuckers do. any suggestions? i'm always looking to find a gem of a climb i haven't come across yet.