[TR] Mt Shasta - Green Butte Ridge to upper Sargents Ridge 4/19/2009

[Chriznitch]

Trip: Mt Shasta - Green Butte Ridge to upper Sargents Ridge

 

Date: 4/18/09 to 4/19/2009

 

Trip Report:

 

Last weekend my buddy Chad and I climbed Shasta via Green Butte Ridge. This is the main ridge on the east side of Avalanche Gulch. The forecast was good all week, and seemed to get even better as the weekend arrived - awesome!

Because our base camp destination was only at 9500', the approach day was easy. We slept in and had a good breakfast, which paid off later. The hike up Green Butte took about 2.5 hours, and from there we set up camp and watched people hike up the Gulch and snowmobilers play in the old ski bowl.

 

Green Butte Ridge, Avalanche Gulch, and Casaval Ridge (right to left)

 

 

 

 

One guy even paraglided off the ridge, but had to opt for the east side due to wind.

 

 

 

 

 

Although we were perched right atop the ridge, where winds typically are harsh on Shasta, only light breezes occassionally blew through. Incredibly calm for this location.

 

 

We headed off early in the morning, around 0215, and climbed a good portion of GBR in the dark. Most of this was quick snowclimbing, with some occassional rocks mixed in.

 

 

 

As we neared the convergence with Sargents Ridge, the first light of the day began to creep over the horizon.

 

 

 

We enjoyed the last cool temperatures before the sun finally hit us and started to heat up the mountain.

 

 

We traversed past a few pinnacles, then easily around Thumb Rock, tying into the AG route at Red Banks.

 

 

We made good time up to the summit from here, topping out around 0930. A group was just leaving the summit, so we enjoyed some peace on top before the rest of the days summitteers arrived.

 

 

 

We had decided on the ascent that we would opt to descend AG, since there were was some frozen rock scrambling on the climb that would likely be less glued in the warmth of the day. This worked out well, despite moving through the oven that is Avalanche Gulch. A couple layers of sunscreen were not enough against this bowl of bright heat.

We made a downward traverse beginning at Lake Helen and tied back into Green Butte Ridge at approximatly 10000'. This was a safe and easy way to get back to our camp, avoiding the majority of difficulties on the ridge above.

 

Positives: this is a fun scrambling route that has less traffic than AG or Casaval Ridge. Great views into the Mud Ck canyon and of lower Sargents Ridge. Green Butte offers a quick base camp approach with good perch to check out the action in AG and Casaval Ridge.

Negatives: directly below Green Butte is open to snowmobilers, so expect some 2-stroke fumes and noise during the weekends.

 

Gear Notes:

crampons, ice axe, sunscreen

 

we also used snowshoes to descend from camp back to the truck, as it was warm and slushy

 

Approach Notes:

head from Bunny Flat straight for Green Butte, visible from the parking lot

[sweatinoutliquor]

Nice work guys... Sounds like a good way to dodge the crowds and catch some of that sun this weekend!

[max]

 

 

 

 

Bitchin photos. That's just what I needed at this hell hole of a computer lab. Via la Vida!

[sparverius]

Nice work and pretty pictures Chris.

[EastKing]

Breathtaking pictures!!!!!!! Thanks for sharing!