canyonman Posted March 9, 2009 Posted March 9, 2009 I have a trip planned to Denali beginning June 1 to attempt the South Buttress and was looking for some beta. We are heading in from the Ruth and was wondering about any info on the glacier. Also wondering about how much/what protection, how much rope needed, good camp sites, and anything else you want to pass along. Thanks for the info! Quote
ScaredSilly Posted March 10, 2009 Posted March 10, 2009 This might be of interest ... http://uaf-db.uaf.edu/jukebox/denali/html/levi.htm http://uaf-db.uaf.edu/Jukebox/DENALI/html/mowo.htm Quote
Dan_Miller Posted March 10, 2009 Posted March 10, 2009 (edited) In addition to the excellent resources noted above; there are I believe two, guidebooks which detail the route, approach, etc on Denali's South Buttress. It appears you may be well served to check them out. My experience with the route is that it can be at times somewhat 'wind prone.' Best of luck. Edited March 10, 2009 by Dan_Miller Quote
Maxtrax Posted May 6, 2009 Posted May 6, 2009 Morton Wood from ScaredSilly's post is my uncle - you might find his writeup of their climb in the 1955 AAJ useful. Although the technical information (i.e. cutting steps) is outdated it should give a good idea of the general conditions and character of the route. http://www.americanalpineclub.org/documents/pdf/aaj/1955/51_Wood_McKinley_aaj1955.pdf Quote
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