[TR] Chair Peak - NE Buttress 2/4/2009

[Trent]

Trip: Chair Peak - NE Buttress

 

Date: 2/4/2009

 

Trip Report:

Yesterday, Heinrich, A2THEK, Dallas and I climbed the NE Buttress of Chair Peak. Our original plan was one of the face routes on Sauk Mt, but with the snow berm plowed on the road intersection with the highway, we would have needed a sled to make it enjoyable.

Living up north, I had never been behind Alpental during the winter. I was impressed with the ease of access, and the amount of climbing that can be done.

The approach was easy, no flotation required.

 

 

Dallas on the approach.

 

Since we had two parties, we decided to do both variations to the start.

 

 

Dallas watching Heinrich and A2 cue up.

 

 

Heinrich belaying A2

 

 

A2 on the left variation. Tied off screws for the first 30 or so feet to a good cam.

 

 

Dallas on the right variation.

 

 

Heinrich overcoming the final difficulties

 

 

Summit shot.

 

The descent is down the standard route up the peak, which would be a fun climb also. Some downclimbing led to a rap down a gulley back to the packs.

 

 

Conditions were great, except for being thin on the left start variation. A great day to play hooky with good friends in the mountains.

 

Gear Notes:

Brought: Three screws (used all three on the left start variation. The shorter the better), three pins, (used one), three cams (.5, .75, and 1 camalots, used two), five nuts, (used two), and two pickets (used both).

 

Approach Notes:

No flotation required.

[Fireball]

I had fun watching you guys, what a day! I was quite jealous since my partner bagged out and I was left to take my dog for a walk up there. Unfortunately he(my pup) was maxed out getting up to the base of the climb. We both watched from the base, I wish he could talk because I know he was thinking something like, "what the hell are they doing way up there?"

I took a bunch of sequenced photo's of all of you pushing through the crux, and on up to the summit. Let me know if you want some sent.

[Fireball]

My brother and i did this route yesterday, and due to some fresh snow the approach took much longer(3.5-4 hrs with flotation). We took the left variation (very nice plastic, set one #8 nut early, then a screw, followed by a .75 and a 1 sized cam, later in the route we used our .5 twice). We made decent time up the route. Topped out at sunset, then rapped out in the dark. Really a neat climb. Should have taken the advice about the short screws. I only set one of mine full depth at the bottom of the cruxy section up high, near there I also found a nice shiny pin in the rocks to the left going up the slot towards the tree.