shannonpahl Posted January 22, 2009 Posted January 22, 2009 Has anyone done or know of beta for a mixed climb up Icicle buttress? We saw a nice sheet of ice on cocaine connection last week-end (only saw it from the road so its hard to tell if it will take screws, but it surely was thicker than the thin stuff we were cragging on). Does anyone have any beta on other routes in the icicle? Quote
rat Posted January 22, 2009 Posted January 22, 2009 at least 3 routes have been climbed to the top of the butt in years past... 1. chicken gully 2. start up the handcrack/offwidth in the recess to the left of chicken gully and follow iced slabs finishing up a right facing dihedral at the top. 3. climb the handcrack left of the #2 start and follow iced features to finish up an ice column over the smallish roof left of the big bertha offwidth. i suspect the cocaine connection line that you mention has also been climbed. check the k&m guide or http://www.wastateice.net/Conditions.aspx for some other routes. good mixed routes can also be found on the careno crag, left side of duty dome, right side of peak-a-boo tower, the chimney a few hundred feet left of hubba hubba and anyplace else your creativity and thirst for filth might lead you. those of you interested in derworth this weekend will find thin ice....bring rock gear. rainbow is running. careno thin. millenium wall was fat but wet yesterday. inversion prevented a look at scw. the mountaineer creek routes looked lean but intriguing as of tuesday. the drip is running to the sea. Quote
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