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bigwallpete

Smoke Bluffs/ Murrin Ice Update 12/17/2008

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Climbed in Squamish today 12/17/2008. We climbed first in the Smoke Bluffs at Alice on Ice area. It was 1"-6" thick. Took several 13cm screws and a 16cm just about. I lead the right corner side of Alice getting a little rock pro plus screws with an exciting dry/rock exit. The center flow was leadable but marginal ice quality and the top 15feet were hollow with water behind. Top roped an excellent corner just left of Alice on Ice with about 15feet of drytooling/M6 followed by a pull onto a steep curtain that ended in 3+ rolling ice to the top left of Alice on Ice and probably the best possible top out on that side.

 

We then headed to Nintendo 69 which has formed way differently this year to years past with a crazy windblown 12-15ft hood blocking the right exit and having sucked all the dripping water away from the left side making for some hard drytooling to finish to the top. Last year I added one bolt to this upper section to facilitate a fun mixed finish out the left side but it is bare up there making it all in all harder shape even just gaining the upper ramp this year as wide stems are the ticket through.

 

Water was available on most of the routes in these areas, so it should continue to fatten up which will keep it fun for a little while longer Im sure.

 

Edited by bigwallpete

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Top roped an excellent corner (possible FRTRA would need two bolts for the rock at the bottom to lead) just left of Alice on Ice with about 15feet of drytooling/M6 followed by a pull onto a steep curtain that ended in 3+ rolling ice to the top left of Alice on Ice and probably the best possible top out on that side.

 

That's "The Myld Thing" FA: Myles Holt & Dave Campbell mid-90s.

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the route description for The Myled Thing says 20m to the left of Alice which there is another corner with a hanging curtain that looks more like the grade that, that route is given. I wouldnt just say it to spray it Im putting it out there. The corner that I climbed was literally the corner attached to the same slab that makes up Alice on Ice.

 

I forwarded pics to Adrian to put on West Coast Ice so take a look when those go up and let me know what you think then. I would love to bolt it this week and send it.

 

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Hey bigwallpete,

 

can you send me the photos,I don't see them on west coast ice

 

mylesnewtonholt at yahoo dot com

 

thx

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After having chatted with Miles and sharing photos Dru was right and the corner we climbed was The Myled Thing.

 

So correct your guidebooks were it say The Myled Thing is 20m left of Alice and put 15ft right next to Alice on the left corner that forms its slab.

 

Great climb, fun pick torques with all the shit where you need it. Go climb it if your in the bluffs as it was the steepest most fun I have had in there so far.

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