The Mole

[Guest]

I don't know wich is the best way to approach this thing. Opinions anyone?

[Freeman]

Straight up Hook Creek (5 or 6 hours as I recall). Toketie Creek is a mess after the fire, Rat Creek is ugly, everything else is long.

We camped on the edge of the Mesa - wonderful spot and a great climb!

[Retrosaurus]

toketie

[viktor]

I've done the Mole a couple of times from Hook Creek. A brutal approach but very direct. In fact, did the north face route last friday, hiked up to the boulderfield and bivied, then up the next day and back to bivy, then spent a couple of days wandering around Edwards Mesa and out Toketie. This way you can avoid dealing with a permit.

Any route up the Mole is easier than the descent, a horrifying series of steep rappels on funky anchors. Thats why we hauled a hammer and bolt kit and added a good 5/16" bolt at each of the 3 rappels. Still scary but a lot more secure. Probably illegal but I'm alive to tell about it.

You can also approach it from Prusik or Toketie, longer but easier. Rat Creek goes, but is longer and gnarlier than Hook. I like the Hook Creek death march better cuz you can see your objective the whole way. You gain well over 5000 feet to the Mesa, taking anywhere from 6 to 9 hours depending on fitness and how much beer you're carrying.

[Guest]

Viktor, How is the north face route rated? Which routes might you recommend?

Thanks retrosaurus and freeman

[viktor]

north face is about 5.8 follows a pretty obvious crack system, 3 pitches or so. The Beckey route is maybe a tad harder just cuz route finding is more of an issue there.

If you're heading up there soon, you're gonna have to plan your water situation. Hook creek is just about dry up higher, the mesa has some stagnant mud holes. pretty marginal right now.

[Guest]

Viktor You be the man. How does the west face of the Blockhouse look for quality free climbin'?

[viktor]

don't really know about the west side, I think the routes are typically longer but the east face of the Blockhouse is a fantastic slice of stone, like a 400 foot chunk of Washington Column. Steep, white rock with sweeping crack systems and dihedrals. Don't know whats been done, but probably not all free.

[Paul_detrick]

Did the N.W. route 2 weeks ago, we went up Hook Cr. We stayed on the trail to Yellowjacket tower, than traverst around the top, it was a bushwack, til you get to the bolder field. When you come down, try and get back on the trail as soon as you can, or else your in for a death march.

The route was good, if you take a 50 meter rope, you will have to climb up 20 ft to a pin with sling, and belay from there to reach

the next belay. The repel did suck, too bad you din't put those bolts in a couple weeks sooner.

Paul