Wastral Posted August 11, 2008 Share Posted August 11, 2008 Trip: Waddington Area - Jubilee Various Date: 7/22/2008 Trip Report: Quick Post, Further later Just got back after 3 weeks had plans for 4 weeks, but... Hiked up to Jubilee with 95lb packs though NASTY aldered in "roads" 4500 elevation gain of nasty brush later... 8 days of rain later reached alpine country soaking wet and took a day to dry out. Now we don't have enough time to get Waddington, but Jubilee is right here... They must have had a mediocre snow year because the glaciers were all broken up and snow bridges non existent. In short got around to the SE ridge of Jubilee and took a look at its nasty loose rock and decided the glacier was better. Several giant crevasses 20-30 feet wide and 200-400 feet deep, some areas they are simply 100 foot tall ice cliffs going from the SE ridge all the way to the East ridge through the east ridges quote easy snow slopes and all the way over and through the North ridge route as well. So, in short if you want to climb Jubilee in the summer, you had better hope that the glaciers move allowing access to the top of the mountain without climbing lots of nasty loose rock on the SE ridge. Enjoy updating the guide book Don Serl! For now Jubilee is a spring ascent only! Jubilee is indeed a Premier ascent though. Awesome Scenery We reached within 400 feet of the top or so before being turned away by 1 final giant crevasse baring the North Ridge. Brian Pictures later after I get some rest, had car troubles on the way back too!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottPick Posted August 11, 2008 Share Posted August 11, 2008 Sounds rough. Can't wait to see the pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted August 11, 2008 Share Posted August 11, 2008 Does This ain't the Cascades, Jack ring any bells? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pc313 Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 This year's record snow fall is gone!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottPick Posted August 14, 2008 Share Posted August 14, 2008 I see the Waddington area as a super-sized version of the North Cascades. Minus the volcanoes of course! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wastral Posted August 20, 2008 Author Share Posted August 20, 2008 Um not exactly. There are no lakes, meadows, or trees. Its rock and ice only. Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted August 20, 2008 Share Posted August 20, 2008 There are no ... trees. Its rock and ice only. Brian NASTY aldered in "roads" 4500 elevation gain of nasty brush later... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottPick Posted August 20, 2008 Share Posted August 20, 2008 Ummm no lakes, meadows or trees....hmmmm what about Nabob Pass? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wastral Posted August 20, 2008 Author Share Posted August 20, 2008 4500 feet of brush from knight inlet to alpine which lasts for maybe 500-1000 feet and after that you are on glaciers. The brush was to Jubilee which is on the fringe of Waddington area. Once you are on jubilee you can't see a tree except a couple at the end of the franklin glacier at 4000 feet. Everything over 5500 to 6000 is snow/ice glacier covered and the glacier snouts go much lower. The cascades don't have valley glaciers either. Thus there is no easy way to access anything without crevasse circumnavigation. Everywhere you are actually climbing has 0 lakes meadows trees. It ain't the cascades jack... The options are a) camp on snow while poking for crevasses or b) clear some scree away and break out your jack hammer to clear a ridge that sticks through the ice. Nabob pass is at the end of the Tiedemen/Tellot glacier where you are actually climbing has 0 lakes/meadows/trees. If you are actually near Waddington, within 10 miles, you can't hardly even see a tree. The 2 you can see are alpine pipsqueeks 15-20 miles away. The cascades don't get daily maritime airflow either, they are insulated by the Olympics and the lowlands. Up by the border you get some but its not coming from the Gulf of Alaska and the Queen Charlotte straights on a daily basis. Brian Gonna go back that is for sure! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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