[TR] Mt. Buckner - N. Face Couloir 8/5/2008

[Mark_L]

Trip: Mt. Buckner - N. Face Couloir

 

Date: 8/5/2008

 

Trip Report:

On August 5th, David Nicholson and I left our bivi at the base of Sahale Peak and climbed over Sahale on to the base of Boston Peak to the Boston Glacier. We had to do a little poking around to find the route as, much to David's dismay we didn't write down the route description from Nelson's book.

 

We continued across the Boston Glacier eying the N. Face of Buckner and pondering whether we should go for the N. face proper or the N. Couloir.

 

The N. Face didn't look all that inviting, but we couldn't tell if it was possible to get over the bergschrund in the couloir. We decided to look at the couloir first. As we got under it, we realized that there would be 2 bergschrunds to get over. It did appear that we could sneak by the first one on the rock just to the right. It was wet, steep, downslabby and loose, but somehow we made it go, thanks to Dave's bold leading.

 

 

We bypassed the second schrund on the rock too and found that there was a third schrund forming. We were able to do an end run on this one and soon we were stepkicking up firm snow in the lower couloir.

 

Eventually, the couloir narrowed down and the snow petered out, putting us on dirty water ice, that was hollow in places. We had also squandered our shade in dealing with the bergschrund problem. We belayed two pitches which involved crossing the debris chute which was starting to become active.

 

David found a sheltered alcove which put us out of the line of fire after crossing the chute. After two rather scary pitches we were back on white ice and after crossing a rock band were able to unrope for the final step kick to the top.

 

We summited at about 2:00, later than we anticipated, and after a little rest, lunch and sunscreen, descended the southwest face to Horseshoe Basin.

 

 

The route back to Sahale Arm follows the basin around the corner from the ridge coming off of Sahale Peak. We exited the upper basin in a couloir on the left side (the one at the dividing line between sun and shade) to avoid the hanging snow slabs which while easier appeared much riskier.

 

David hightailed it for the parking lot, while I chose to enjoy both strolling down Sahale Arm at sunset and not feeling like I was in imminent danger for the first time that day.

 

 

Gear Notes:

Small rock rack up to 3". Small TCUs are especially useful. Can protect the couloir on the rock. 4 screws. Flukes for the glacier. 2 ice tools. Crampons. 50 M rope.

 

Approach Notes:

Easy hike to bivi at the foot of the Sahale Glacier. The route from Horseshoe Basin conveniently exits right there too.

Edited August 7, 2008 by Mark_L

[moronbros]

sweet jeebus, that's a lot of snow still up on the N side. Were you clanking around on ice or was it corn still?

 

nice job up der

[pms]

Hey Mark, nice route choice for hot weather.

[StevenSeagal]

[Mark_L]

sweet jeebus, that's a lot of snow still up on the N side. Were you clanking around on ice or was it corn still?

 

It was good stepkicking at the bottom, dirty (but soft) ice in the middle (sometimes hollow too), and firm neve at the top. Surprisingly good considering the heatwave weather. The night was cool, probably because it was so clear.