Pantheon Range - info needed!

[ScottPick]

Hi all,

Great website here. Bivouac.com should have forums as well!!

2 of us are flying into the Pantheon Range this weekend with Mike King. Who knows the history of Siva Peak? What about what we are calling "Sand Creek Wall". There is a peak that's called Mt. Vetch on Bivouac.com (8520 feet). Its the big reddish peak just east of Siva. Anyone know if it has a claimed first ascent?

We are going to try and give it a go.

Any information wanted!!!

 

Attached is a photo I took in 2006 from the Whitesaddle Mountain area in the Nuit Range which is right accross the Mosely Creek Valley from where we are going this year.

 

[John_Scurlock]

I have a series of shots of the W & N sides of Vishnu & Bayamee from when I was up there in May for Zeus, etc., & some other stuff. Unfortunately, cloud on the summits was a factor. I have never posted anything from that trip, email me if you think it might be useful.

[marc_leclerc]

Hey scott... whats that smaller peak with the three summits between VIshnu and Byamee...that looks fairly close to our camp...

[ScottPick]

Marc that's just a sub-summit of Vishnu...unless someone has named it? Although it is seperated enough from the main Vishnu massif to have a name. How bout you climb it then we can think up a good name for it. That peak might be easier than "Siva South Pillar" (as we are calling the spire mounted on the SE side of Siva.

Doesn't that tower in the centre of the Vishnu massif look a bit Patagonian?

I am sure when we are there we will be wondering about the climbing history of the peaks around us.

 

This is the FA info I got from Bivouac.com:

 

Vishnu

Height: 3008 m (9869 ft)

First Ascent: 1970 D. Boyd, E.& M. Kafer: W ridge

This impressive peak is found at the east end of the Pantheon Range. The north face is glaciated and the east, south, and west faces are steep rock. There are a few huge towers, almost separate peaks, on the south ridge, separated from each other by steep, narrow notches where dykes have eroded away.

 

Vishnu is one of the Hindu "Trinity" or three aspects of the same god; known as The Preserver. Brahma, the Creator, and Shiva, the Destroyer, are the other two.

 

Previously mapped at 2960m, the new TRIM survey makes Vishnu the only 3000m peak in the Pantheon Range.

 

Siva Mountain British Columbia

Height: 2879 m (9446 ft)

First Ascent: 1966 BCMC party: NW ridge

 

Here's a great springtime pic of Siva's massive north face. The pillar you want to climb is the left hand skyline.

 

 

The northern of the three "Trimurtri Peaks" (Byamee, Vishnu, and Siva), Siva is a variant spelling of Shiva. There are huge 900m walls on the NE side of Siva. The Siva Glacier lies on the W. side.

 

 

 

[ScottPick]

Hi John,

Could you post a couple of images if you think they would be useful to us?

[John_Scurlock]

Hi John,

Could you post a couple of images if you think they would be useful to us?

 

Scott, I'm at work tonight, won't be able to get to them until tomorrow around noon when I get home. They are nice shots but probably only useful for assessing approaches from the west. On that day clouds over that group were a real problem & I finally gave up & headed back south. (I had flown up in there over the Siva gl. after finishing with everything to the west, but couldn't pull it off.) I'll post a couple of examples tomorrow.

Edited July 31, 2008 by John_Scurlock

[John_Scurlock]

FWIW:

 

Vishnu & Byamee, W sides, clouds mucking things up: http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/101012046 and the next five

 

On the other hand, on the W side of Colwell Cr, clouds not so much a factor: Astarte, NF - http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/101012044

 

And then a bit farther west, Zeus: http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/101012061 & http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/101012067

 

I have a ton of stuff from this trip on hand but just haven't had time to get to it.

[ScottPick]

That's awesome John, thanks. Unfortunately we are going to be on the opposite side of these peaks. It looks like you flew right up Colwell Creek past Nirvana Pass. We have decided to check out the "back side" (well actually front side) of these peaks as this side is less visited and as far as we can tell provides better views of the surrounding peaks. Nirvana Pass is crammed between large, high peaks and the view from down there is more limited.

Of all the peaks the north face of Astarte looks fantasic! We were thinking of going in there but decided to go to Siva Mountain as its a cheaper heli ride in.

We would all love for you to post more pics if you can of this super area!

[jordop]

Scott,

 

You should spend some time in the library reading back issues of the CAJ as there is a tonne of useful information available that will help you with your questions.

 

I'll save you some time by suggesting some of the more important articles: 1967, 81, 85, 91, 92, 01.

 

Pretty challenging rock around the Vishnu area and that is one of the reasons the immediate area lacks in harder pure rock climbs. See in particular Chic Scott's article in the 91 CAJ on his and Gabarrou's climb on Vishnu. The area seems more suited to general mountaineering (not to metion skiing). Feel free to get in touch if you want more information.

 

[ScottPick]

Great idea...if I had time...the SFU library has all the CAJ's and I used to love to read them but dang I'm leaving tommorrow!

[jordop]

That's a shame as the experiences of past parties would give you a pretty good idea of rock quality and established routes in that area - oh well, be sure to stock up on rebar and concrete mix as you pass through Williams Lake!

[marc_leclerc]

is it as bad as Cheam Range? I dont really care anyhow... ill climb what i can

[jordop]

I have no personal experience with the Vishnu-Siva area but previous parties have encountered unstable blocks and rotten rock. There is good rock in the Pantheons, but it can be hit and miss. This is why everyone gets a boner flying past those east faces but nobody has touched them. There is a good deal of info on this available - shame to spend 24 hrs driving and lots of pesos flying into an area you don't know much about.

 

If you're content with peak bagging via the obvious ridges, I'm sure you'll have a grand time. But if you have designs on steep rock routes, you may find much to be desired. At least that is what I discovered after talking to lots of folks and doing lots of reading over many months before we flew into the western Pantheons two years ago.

[marc_leclerc]

I just want to climb some possible unclimbed peaks via ridges and ice routes

[jordop]

Assume that all the peaks have been climbed.

[jmace]

Jordan knows his stuff, I think we spent a couple months emailing and researching our trip to the Pantheons before we went. Didnt Foweraker fly in and refuse to land and fly back out?

 

Will be a fun area to camp and relax in the mountains though

 

Have fun guys, looks like a nice weather window from Sunday to Thursday/Friday

[ScottPick]

Thanks for the help all. Just as a point of clarification I am going to hike and take pictures and of course soak up the "alpine ambiance" Marc Leclerc is the one planning to climb but I think he will take your cautions to heart.

[marc_leclerc]

I'm always cautious soloing... I usually go by: dont go up what you cant climb down...

[marc_leclerc]

ill post a TR when I get back..... just keep your eyes on this section of the forum next week if you want to read it.