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Posted

I was wondering if any of you have any information about the condition of the DC route from Camp Muir? We are planning on an attempt next week, and would like to know how it's been? Also, are plastic boots needed, or can I get by with leathers?

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Posted

I did DC this weekend. The bottom portion of the cleaver is almost completely melted, with the upper left portion still covered in snow. At about 13000 feet (give or take a few hundred feet) there is a metal ladder with two wooden boards to cross a crevasse. It can supposedly also be skirted on the left side (the foot path was visible but not flagged). We took the ladder, which was sketchy, but saw 2 solo climbers cross it on all fours (I wouldn't want to do it standing up without another climber to protect it). All in all the route was in good shape.

 

I used La Sportiva Trango EVO GTX boots. They were a little cold for this route, but worked. Others in my group used plastics and they were warm. I think leather boots would be just fine.

Posted

After coming down it after doing Kautz a week ago I can not say the route is in good shape. Sun cupped to hell with a 12" boot deep and 12" wide track (aka cattle trail) through it. What does this mean? Passing people will suck so things will get backed up, especially at any of the crevasses. One crevasse crossing was sketchy and is probably the one with a ladder on it now. I would choose another route - either Emmons or Kautz.

Posted

I did the Emmons last weekend. Given the above route conditions (suncaps, 12" wide cattle path) I'd say the emmons conditions arent any better then DC. For the emmons, the 12" wide cattle path is really your only option for much of the upper route. Double bummer is that it was the only path both up and down.

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