ATCR1 Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 Looking to head to the Teton range Oct 1st-8th. First time there and would like to climb the Grand via the Owens route. I have high altitiude climbing experience on Shasta, Hood, Rainier, Whitney, Washington. Rock climbing experience includes, almost a decade of Yosemite and the Lake Tahoe region. Also have all equip needed and will bring it if need be. Looking for someone comfortable with exposure since the climb is not that challenging. No time to teach on this trip, so you need to comfortable with 5.6 and belaying. LMK Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Argus Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 Looking for someone comfortable with exposure since the climb is not that challenging. I wouldn't expect it be a cakewalk that time of year. Often that time of year the upper mountain gets plastered with ice and it can be cold as hell. Then again, it could be a cakewalk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATCR1 Posted July 24, 2008 Author Share Posted July 24, 2008 Thanks for the advice. Yeah I can see it going either way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dugice Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 I have been there in Aug on two separate occasions. Both times in dumped snow in the saddle. October is a very bad time as far as weather goes....I would head to Red Rocks or Yosemite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryland_moore Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 I second others opinions. Very tough time to climb. There is a wet period in Jackson in the fall before the snows fly in the valley but plasters the upper elevations. I was never able to summit the Grand past Labor Day when I lived there and only once made it up that late. July and August are best for sure. At least you won't have a problem with permitsfor the lower saddle, but the rangers may have already packed up and headed out that late as well. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lisa_D Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 I was there in early Sept last year and the mtn had been plastered in verglas and the chimneys on the Owen-Spalding were filled with ice. We had been planning to do the Exum ridge but I opted out because I was afraid of the descent... encountering snow and ice while scrambling down 4th class gullies sounded too scary for me. My partner ended up making the climb, and she said it was freezing cold and icy in the chimneys on the way down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATCR1 Posted July 24, 2008 Author Share Posted July 24, 2008 All great advice. Thanks. Yeah I have a old climbing buddy from Texas who is going to try and make it. But I have been taking a serious look at past conditions during that time. Looks 50/50 either it will be a go-getter, or a true harrowing alpine event. Depending on the conditions a week or so out we might bail. Any other's who have climbed or been chased off during early Oct I would appreciate hearing you experience. Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryland_moore Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 If conditions are bad, an alternative climb that is doable in a day is to head off to the meadows (SE)from the trail instead of heading up to the lower Saddle. From the medows you climb up to the saddle between Lower and Middle Teton. There are nice gullies that head up both right from the saddle and you can summit both in a day as long as there is snow in them. It is a great back-up if the weather craps out or the rock is iced up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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