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[TR] Hood - Sunshine - attempt 7/6/2008


ptownclimber

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Trip: Hood - Sunshine - attempt

 

Date: 7/6/2008

 

Trip Report:

Headed out for the annual fourth of July ski tradition, and we had made plans to add the Sunshine route this year. The road to cloud cap is blocked by logs (not really blocked by snow, from what we could see) about halfway, but in talking with a friend we learned that we could head straight up the ski-trail, adding "about 1,000 feet of gain" and untold distance - but much shorter than 5 miles of road. We left town at 10, running on caffeine and adrenaline. We met up where the road is blocked - the impromptu parking lot/TH - and departed around 1am.

 

The ski trail is *reasonably* easy to follow in the dark, except that the blue trail blazes really blend in with bark under headlight illumination, and none of us had ever been on that trail before. After reasonable progress/bushwhacking/"routefinding" in the dark with no moon (we finally resorted to GPS to learn that we'd overshot the cloud cap TH)...we were on the moraine after about 2 hours - a little bit behind schedule.

 

After a futile attempt at skinning up the lower snow dome, we were back in crampons, lugging the damn skis up the hill - a little more behind schedule. Ray-lax was breaking in his new split-board set-up, so every change necessitated a boot change. On the way up we soaked up an amazing sunrise...red orange light with the sun rising like some kind of giant orange through low clouds/haze/(smoke from California wildfires?). We arrived at the top of the dome - a little more behind schedule - to find that the route was melted out significantly vs. 54-55 weeks ago. Perhaps this supports the hypothesis that the great snowpack this year is not any better above 9k feet.

 

We roped up and went left of the rock at the top of the dome, up and around some small crevasses. After just a short break at the top to eat/hydrate/gear up...it was amazing how quickly the snow started to soften. We were punching in ankle deep on the steeper, NE facing section. Things were still pretty firm on the traverse over to the ridge, but starting to soften up. Altimeter said 10.4k, and it was about 9am as I recall. We had a quick pow-wow and decided that things were too soft to ascend and come back down the sunshine route safely.

 

The descent to the dome was straightforward. More food, water, gear change...nice temps and breezy. By this point things had softened up to the point that we thoroughly enjoyed schralping the gnarr - to the point that we forgot all about the summit. Ray-lax was in love with the new split board.

 

We found the trail a little easier to follow in the daylight, but not much. Between fatique and sleep deprivation, none of us could recall exactly which trail/road crossing we needed to turn at. It seemed like a week had passed since early that morning. We kept telling Ray-lax that it was still only 6:45am. We found the cars without too much trouble, enjoyed getting our boots off, cotton on, and cold beer in the belly.

 

All in all, the most no-summit climbing fun I've ever had. Thanks guys, for a great trip.

 

pictures forthcoming

 

Gear Notes:

-would have been a great day for ski crampons

-4th of July partay leftovers...MMMMM, MMMMM

 

Approach Notes:

-10 consecutive months of skiing

-we felt that mountain bikes & 5 miles of road would be easier/more fun than the trail (especially for the descent!)

 

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need to find a boot that I can hike/climb in AND board back down... I was using stiff day hikers w/strap on crampons which work fine for the up but then had to change out to my full on snowboarding boots each time I wanted to use the board (which means I had to carry the extra weight/bulk AND take the time to change over).

 

cheers --

 

//ray

 

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I've had good luck with my Burton Drivers, which have a Vibram sole and are nice and stiff for skinning. They aren't mountaineering boots by any means, but the best compromise I've found so far. Lots of threads about boots on splitboard.com - some people have found the La Sportiva Nuptse boots works well for both........

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Speaking of boots, the snowboard world is very slow at coming up with something that is a suitable "snowboard mountaineering" boot.

 

Most of us have come up with our own solutions to the issue that will have to pass until something is mass produced.

 

Personally, I have been using regular Koflach plastic mountaineering boots, and substituted the stock liner for a taller liner from some old Tele race boots I got off e-bay. I just loosen the velcro power strap when I am hiking or skinning.

I chose this so I could use my step in crampons, and my other strap crampons do not fit my snowboard boots..

 

This seems to work OK for me, but eventually I am gonna buy a Voile system board in the future that can use MTN PLATES. (I have one of the older Burton models with the old interface, and the plates are only for the Voile system.

 

My Partner uses the MTN PLATES on his split and utilizes AT Ski boots. He claims that they hike really well, and are stiff enough for snowboarding. I am probably also going to end up getting the same set up in the future, I just have to destroy the current setup to justify a new one. (And I am slowly working on that!!)

 

For what it's worth, I don't even take out the split when the snow is this consolidated, and just boot up a solid board...

 

Powder, that's another story, the split is mandatory...

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Thanks for the info and I agree that it's odd that the manufacturers have not really addressed the boot issue -- it's not like split boards are brand spankin' new! My new board is a voile mt. gun and it really is sweet. Was looking @ the newer mojo version (cap construction) but found this one in my size new @ 30% off (!), just couldn't pass it up. It rides really solid and carves well (even in this slush/corn/cement we have now), can hardly wait until the powder comes back! This weekend I’m going to pack my boots up (adams) but will figure out something by next season – really going to look @ the mtn plates a little closer....

 

cheers!

 

//ray

 

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need to find a boot that I can hike/climb in AND board back down... I was using stiff day hikers w/strap on crampons which work fine for the up but then had to change out to my full on snowboarding boots each time I wanted to use the board (which means I had to carry the extra weight/bulk AND take the time to change over).

 

cheers --

 

//ray

 

My buddy has had a lot of good fortune climbing and snowboarding with his La Sportiva Nepal Extremes with a solid strap in binding..

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally getting around to adding a photo. The crazy cool sunrise:

 

Torment_Forbidden_015.jpg

 

And a photo from a July 4th ski trip in 2005, with the route looking in much better shape...one could still pass the 'schrund to the right of the rocks:

 

 

 

P7020053.JPG

Edited by ptownclimber
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