belayerslayer Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 Trip: Boston Basin - Forbidden - East Ridge Attempt Date: 6/23/2008 Trip Report: [/img] It always disenchants me to include "attempt" within the suffix of a route description; it implies that your time might be better spent following and praising the exploits of those souls who actually achieved summit somewhere. Yet,after so thoroughly enjoying this trip, I thought a brief TR was in order. The plan was the east ridge of Forbidden. After tagging the summit, via the west ridge, in 10 hrs (car to car) with my bro nearly 3 years ago, I felt like it was time to revisit this classic peak and taste its other acclaimed routes. Two close buds of mine, Anthony and Aharon, agreed they were up for the challenge. We left Des Moines 8:30am monday, drove up toward cascade pass, then parked around milepost 20 - 12:30pm. Couple miles shy of boston basin trailhead. Tons of road work still to be done up there. We geared up and walked the easy 2 miles to the trailhed in under an hour [/img] [/img] The trail remained snow-free until about 3/4 the way in, just as you start to get into timber on the slopes below the basin. I followed some tracks until they disappeared. With a vague recollection of where the basin lay, I pushed straight up the wooded slopes until we broke onto a small ridge overlooking the valley. We crossed the basin and worked our way up toward the right side of the 'unnamed glacier'. A group of climbers were descending through the basin after a climb of the west ridge. I brought the three of us up to a small rock band which protected the gully leading up to the east ridge. Took about 3 1/2 hrs from the trailhead. Lots of avy debris around, so we cut a nice spot for our tent and set up camp [/img] [/img] Enjoyed a fantastic evening in high country! Great food, calm weather, stirring views of peaks to the south. As the evening lulled by, clouds swollen with rain wrapped themselves around Forbidden and Boston peaks. Sahale glaring down at us [/img] Set the alarm for 4:45. A light drizzle during the night kept me from any decent sleep. Woke to foul weather and dark mist. After a brief breakfast, we roped up and ascended the gully to the east ridge [/img] [/img] Having never climbed this portion of the mountain, I think I brought us a little too far right, up a fairly steep couloir and onto a slightly corniced ridge [/img] [in the distance, between the fog, I made out the lone gendarme which marks the start of the east ridge. To my left lie another narrow gully which had a cairn resting atop some flat rocks. The proper east ridge ascent? [/img] The east ridge unfolded before us with a menace, enhanced by sharp winds and tainted clouds. We debated a while if it was gonna go. Wind was decent, rock looked wet, if not a bit icy. After my idyllic simul-climb of the west ridge in warm august weather 3 yrs prior, I couldn't help but feel betrayal. I cursed the mountain, and my own weakness for not willing myself to push through these conditions. I recalled a similar feeling after climbing Burgundy Spire's north face in foul weather - not enjoyable. After wrestling with some options, we slowly decided to descend back to the glacier [/img] For a few moments, the clouds ripped apart and the sun revealed an enticing promise for better weather. This hope was quickly swallowed up like the summit of Forbidden, which disappeared from sight into the clouds. We descended to the edge of the glacier and spied a couple open sections in the snow with rock beneath; a good chance to practice some glacier stuff. [/img] [/img] Fun little spot between two mammoth sections of rapidly melting snow. Set up a picket and a t-ax anchor, then ran two lines down the 15ish ft. wall of snow [/img] Messed around there for a while, doing prussiks and stuff, then hiked back to basecamp. Packed up and said our goodbyes to the mountains. 3 hrs from camp back to the car. Great partners, good trip, even if summit wasn't tagged. Thanks boys! [/img] I'm thinking cover photo for Rock and Ice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letsroll Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 LOL thinking your right. Good cover photo. Break out the gimp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottgg Posted June 27, 2008 Share Posted June 27, 2008 Hmmm, sounds suspicious. Perhaps the weather gods scoffed at your unworthy pre-climb sacrifice of crow's feet and orange pips. In these wet and wooly days I suggest glazed donuts and bootied carabiners offered up humbly to the fickle lords of cascade rain and shine. Third climbing partners also make nice offerings.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belayerslayer Posted June 27, 2008 Author Share Posted June 27, 2008 yes, but the dilemma with sacrificing said '3rd climbing partner' is that it leaves myself and remaining partner to sort through the portion of tent/rack/food he carried. And the subsequent quandary of who gets his climbing gear will only lead to more bloodshed... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted June 27, 2008 Share Posted June 27, 2008 Great photo's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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