Very quick 8.2mm rope question

[JayJ]

I am in the transition from doing lots of scrambling to attempting some alpine routes that require some protection, i.e. some glacier travel and some exposed slabs in the Olympics. I like to go lightweight and was wondering if 60m 8.2mm rope, like the Petzl Dragonfly rope would do the job. Can it be used as a single rope as mild protection and during glacier travel? Or must it be doubled up?

[woodchips]

8.2 is great for glacier stuff (although more likely to cut into the edge when an actual crevasse fall happens), but is generally considered too skinny for genuine rock climbing. It's more of an abrasion/resistance to cutting issue than it is of strength. You can fold a double (8.2mm) rope in half, and lead on it using double rope techniques. You only get 30m leads, but this can be fine for scrambles.

[counterfeitfake]

Can it be used as a single rope as mild protection

 

Technically no, the rope is not designed or rated for this. But some people do it.

[eldiente]

On moderate terrain where the chances of a fall are nill, I don't have a problem leading on an 8.2. Folding it in half for a short crux section might make you feel better. 8.2 is still very strong but will not hold up to repeated falling or sharp edges. I think this would be an ideal rope for a lot of things around WA where your doing a lot of simuling and maybe a few pitch of "real" climbing.

[dreimer]

On the same note...I'm looking to buy some new rope for solo and 2 person alpine. What would you recommend? 9mm? 11mm? Dry?

[sobo]

As no doubt you've checked, the Dragonfly is a half rope, and as such would not be beefy enough for "full-on" technical climbing. However, as many have already noted, when the grade eases and the consequences of falling are reduced, it would make an adequate choice for what you intend to do with it, and it can be quickly doubled up for short serious leads.

 

Putzl Dragonfly rope

[JayJ]

Thanks everyone for your insight, it was very helpful.