[TR] Borah Peak - SW Ridge 5/16/2008

[Chriznitch]

Trip: Borah Peak - SW Ridge

 

Date: 5/16/2008

 

Trip Report:

Borah Peak (aka Mount Borah) during the drive to the trailhead

 

While on a work trip to western Montana, I took a couple days off and drove down into Idaho to climb Borah Peak. Conditions called for no precip, but little did I know that meant a heatwave would be hitting the western US!

 

This summit is the highest point in Idaho (12,662'), and interestingly enough grew 7' during a 1983 earthquake.

 

I solo'd the southwest ridge route on May 16th 2008. The trailhead was deserted, offering a quiet and peaceful place to set up basecamp for a couple nights. I enjoyed the solitude and got a start on things around dusk, after a warm night.

Following the climbers' trail to snowline, I made pretty good time moving through the forested portion of the climb. Gaining the horseshoe-shaped ridge (reference photo above) that marks the "southwest ridge" and leads to the summit.

 

 

I had been sweating pretty good wearing pants and a long sleeve tee, but figured that things would cool when I reached the snow. I donned my fleece gloves briefly, but once the sunshine hit me it was hot for the rest of the day.

Along the ridge, the views of the Lost River Range peaks to the south were pretty impressive.

 

 

I negotiated "Chicken Out Ridge", which was pretty straighforward in the morning with firm snow. Great views continued, with some enjoyable exposure along snow aretes and snow saddles.

 

looking up at "chicken out ridge"

 

looking down onto my tracks along "chicken out ridge"

 

The ridge continued all the way to the summit, and as the temperatures warmed I noticed the snow was quickly softening in the sun.

 

final ridge to the summit

 

looking south at some cool geology

 

I summitted and sat there for a while, soaking up the sun and watching cornices break off around me. With the avalanches rumbling around I figured it was time to get past the ridge to firmer ground. I snapped a panorama and headed down.

 

 

I found the downclimbing much more tedious, with my crampons constantly balling up with snow and the snow ridge conditions becoming poor. Taking my time, I finally re-traversed the ridge and reached the thawed lower portion of the climbers' trail. I descended through the woods and began to think about getting back to the trailhead for more water, Bayern brew, and dinner!

 

 

I reached base camp with plenty of light left in the day, so I hid in the shade and enjoyed having the place to myself. The prairie dogs and birds kept me company. Having a professional interest in forest roads, it was quite intriguing that the PD's had many burroughs built right into the compacted roadway around the trailhead.

 

 

All in all, this was a very interesting trip. I definitely recommend this area for mountaineering (in colder conditions), and based on the amount of people I saw (zero), I would guess that nearly every peak besides Borah offers guaranteed solitude. Someday I might return! I definitely saw some attractive couloirs and ridges on the adjacent peaks...

 

Gear Notes:

economy rental car, ice axe, crampons, sunglasses!, sunscreen!, water!, hat!

...and I didn't even think to bring shorts (doh!)

 

Approach Notes:

just follow the climbers' trail from the trailhead to chickenout ridge, then follow the ridge to the summit

[curtveld]

Way to escape the crowds! Much more alpine than it looks from a distance. Nice TR.

[danhelmstadter]

Thanks for the great TR. I took my dog up Borah ~8 years ago, and promised myself I would come back. All that monster sage brush is pretty cool.

[FatTexan]

I will be there in early June. I guess an early, early start will be recommended.

 

Any need for snowshoes? Does not look like it.

 

Thanks for posting the TR.

Edited May 20, 2008 by FatTexan

[Chriznitch]

yeah, plan to leave the snowshoes. There were a few portions where I was postholing but they should be minimal in 2 weeks.

[FatTexan]

I found this webcam. Looks like quite a bit less snow now.