Rainier Beta

[adr_901]

We are planning a trip to rainier the weekend of the 27th. We are thinking of the Klautz or Fuers Finger routes. Any recent beta? Does anyone know if the routes will remain in shape until then, if not then any other suggestions? THANKS

Allen

[To_The_Top]

Chugach,

We attempted the Kautz over a week ago, so the beta I can offer will be a little old by the time you go, but here goes.....Nobody had been up the Finger, but 2 parties were going over (we saw them on the way out). The route was reported to be "in shape" and from what we saw it looked good(been up there a few years ago).

We (4) camped at 10,600', but I would recommend camping at 10,300', the sites were better there. We saw a group at Hazard, but I heard they are discouraging camping there-nice Ice Cliff above. The chute was around 50 degree pitches (very short, and not as bad as we heard IMO) The worst part is the approach, allow a long time 6-9 hours, and crossing the "heinious" Nisqually glacier read: not as bad as they tell you.

I recommend going to Hazard the night before and checking out the route that didn't seem like the guide books discription, either go down and around or cutting horizotally through the icefall (didn't look too bad).

We aborted the climb, long story short..2 newbies that were sick and some kite flying at basecamp. We heard the route above was good though. Both routes are beautiful.

TTT

[adr_901]

Thanks TTT. I will post a report when we return