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Trip: Lassen Peak - NW Ridge

 

Date: 3/30/2008

 

Trip Report:

lassen_peak_032108.jpg

Lassen from Lake Almanor, a week and a storm before the climb

 

After a few years of thinking about this peak in winter, and at least 2 aborted attempts, my friend Chad and I finally climbed it. So what if it was officially early spring...

We climbed the Northwest Ridge in a day from Manzanita Lake. On the drive over the hill, everything had a fresh snow cover as we neared the park, which added to the scenery. The approach is basic--follow the east fork of Manzanita Creek and Chaos Crags will steer you right toward the NW ridge.

 

crossing_manzanita_creek.jpg

 

nw_ridge_route.JPG

 

As we hiked through the trees, I thought about how warm things felt. This feeling would soon go away, as a biting chill set in as we climbed above timberline. This is a pretty straightforward route that is recommended only when snow covered. There was some frozen talus exposed on the route, but we were able to avoid this on the ascent by following the snow on the north face. We did encounter a couple hundred feet of 40deg snow and some 3rd class moves on the crater ridge traverse over to the true summit.

 

lower_ridge_fun.jpg

 

cb_climbing_nw_ridge.jpg

 

After topping out at the summit plateau area, the traverse over to the south side of the peak and the summit is beautiful & spectacular. We also passed quite a few fumeroles on the ridge and around the summit.

 

traverse_north_ridge_to_summit.jpg

 

traverse_north_ridge_to_summit3.jpg

 

north_side_crater_pano.jpg

 

As we rounded the ridge we finally got our first looks at the summit, a hill atop the plateau:

lassen_summit.jpg

 

We topped out in a cloud so the views were limited to the south, but it was still a decent day for climbing.

 

lassen_summit_team.jpg

 

 

We had to snap a shot of the summit symbol:

summit_penis.jpg

 

As we neared the truck later that afternoon, we also neared the civilization of the north park entrance.

snow_family.jpg

 

Gear Notes:

snowshoes & poles, ice ax, crampons, balaclava

 

Approach Notes:

head straight towards the peak, southwest from the parking lot at Manzanita Lake (visitor center). Head for the easternmost fork of Manzanita creek (west of Chaos Crags), this will lead you straight to the ridge.

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Posted

CA-89 is plowed into both ends of the park, roughly 1.5 miles from the north and 5 miles from the south.

The winter trailheads are basically the parking areas near visitor centers at each boundary.

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