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Posted (edited)

I'm looking for a climbing partner in the Portland area to train with and climb The Nose route on El Cap. this summer or fall. If your interested, let's hook up for some climbs to see if we click. Contact me via PM. Greg

Edited by gnarlygoat
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Posted

Attempting the Nose in the summer, your main difficulties will not be from your partner or your fitness. Fall is a good time.

 

If you can't find anyone, your best bet is to meet someone at camp 4 if you have the time to hang out. There is ALWAYS at least a few people looking for partners for the Nose etc... and I'm willing to bet the success rate of such arrangements isn't that much lower than having a partner already. But you can also have bad luck doing this as well, so try a warm-up climb or two with them before committing to the Captain.

 

If you go there with two weeks in hand and the goal to get up the Nose, you'll probably do it.

 

It's a great goal, Good Luck!

Posted

I sent you a response yesterday, although it may not have made it to you due to my ineptness with this web page.

 

Anyway, thanks for your response and tips. I realize el cap is unbearaly hot during the summer and was planning on an early June assent to take advantage of the longer days. I agree that fall is a better time and is typically when I go to the valley.

 

I have found climbers at camp 4 in the past with mixed results, although your right in that given enough time, one should be able to find a good partner there and, if lucky, be successful.

 

Thanks for the encouragement. Greg

Posted

June is fine, I have seen it snow in Yosemite June 18th. My first two El Cap routes were in July, and it was great. I climbed the Nose in long pants, and the Zode in shorts. My partner climbed both routes in long pants. I have seen it snow in September more than once, as well as being stifling hot in both September and October

Posted

Thanks for the info. You bring up a great point, weather is unpredictable in the mountains (even the Sierra's) no matter what time of year. I was in the valley early Oct. of 2004 and had two weeks of perfect 75 - 80 degree climbing weather. The day after I left a huge snow storm blew in sadly claiming the lives of two climbers on el cap. That incident taught me a huge lesson.

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