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Commarin

Mount Crillon?

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I'm planning an expedition for the west ridge of Mount Crillon in the Fairweather/Saint Elias Range. Any beta from fellow climbers regarding approaches and route details would be greatly appreciated. We'll most likely approach by boat from Lituya Bay, then traverse either the North Crillon or South Crillon Glacier to the base of the route.

 

I received some aerial photos and details of the route from Bradford Washburn prior to his death. But his ascent took place in 1934, so we're searching for something more current.

Thanks

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I would contact GBNP folks by phone. I've read that Lake Crillon drains out (into the Fairweather Fault!) from time-to-time, so you may want to check the status there since, I believe, it is where you would land. The Alaska Geographic series has some good 20 year old pics of the approach taken from an area called "Grassy Ridge" just west of North Crillon Glacier. I have a 1934 National Geographic Magazine with Washburn's ascent in it, but it sounds like you got it right from the source. The area is overdue for its 35 year mega-quake, and riding a glacier that sits atop one of the biggest cracks on the planet would be a bad place to be when it happens. I do have a really cool Austin Post picture of the unclimbed (still?) North Ridge of Crillon. Approach from Glacier Bay - extreme climbing. I'll scan and send if you like since I'll never be doing it.

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I'd fly in. I've spent a bit of time in Lituya Bay and it will be a nasty approach, real nasty. Lots of bears, I mean lots, rain...lots of rain, devils club galore, shattered open glacier low and tons of wet snow up high. Crillion is an amazing mountain though. Good Luck.

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