cheam range traverse?

[cheamclimber]

My cunning plan is to solo the cheam ridge traverse starting with the N or NW side of cheam and ending down the Lucky four Trail over the course of four days this spring. I was wondering when you more experienced guys think the conditions are best for this, as in the scree fields are coveres in snow but not to much of a cornice/ Avalanche problem. I really need the west face of welch to be in good shape for it to work out well, I was thinking anywhere between mid april to early June for this trip... does this sound about right?

[G-spotter]

The cornice will be a big problem along the NW face and by the time it's gone (late May) the start gully will be bush city. You might want to think about starting via the NE Ridge, that's less corniced. Also going out by Lucky 4 will easily add most of a day, why not just head down to Williamson Lake from Foley?

[cheamclimber]

Both of those ideas went through my head... Tha approach to the NE Ridge is way harder than the gully to the NW face just getting to the peak will take most of a day, If I cross the Angel and head SW to the base of the SW ridge I can probably make the Lady Knight col on the First day. The only reason I want to go out Lucky Four is because its more of the cheam ridge route than cutting back into Williamson and isnt that long... I might come down Williamson Lake though if I'm tired and want to go home or something.

[old 5.9]

Cheamclimber,

You seem young and enthusiastic, which is good since in your neighborhood there is alot to be enthused about. If I was contemplating the Cheam traverse I’d do it in August because I'm a little older I prefer to walk on the earth, climb the rocks (even if they're rotten), stop and smell the flowers and maybe use snow for sliding down. I did Welch and Foley twenty some years ago in August and here’s what it looked like then.

 

 

Welch from Foley

 

 

Foley from Welch

 

 

If I was you I’d be investigating stuff up Nesakwatch creek since I hear the road has recently been made drivable. Back when I was going up there you parked your car not long after leaving the Chilliwack road if you valued it. Then after fording the creek the road was so rutted that it was more like a boulder strewn stream bed. Then to complicate matters the road was laced with large amounts of snow damaged alders much of it at a height that you had to crawl under it. Took ya most of the day just to get to the Rexford trail, but holey hell that’s where some good looking rock resides.

 

 

South Rexford Illusion crag

 

 

Rexford

 

You should try and hook up with Dru he knows your neighborhood well.