Whats in near Hope

[cheamclimber]

Is anything good in near Hope for climbing on saturday? Jarvis? Mousetrap?

[G-spotter]

Went 4 a scout/drive today. Here are conditions:

 

Bridal Falls: bits & pieces of ice but nothing climbable

Picadilly Circus not in yet.

 

Easy Intro has a fair bit of ice but it is sun rotted and detached, scary looking.

 

Diviner etc look good. Quite snowy up there.

 

Hunter Creek routes are very thin as of yet. Iced, but maybe not climbable.

 

Mousetrap is coming along. First pitch hard/impossible to protect but soloable WI2. Pool to cross to get to second pitch didnt seem to be thick enough to bear weight. Considering the whole thing was running water on Sunday, it's probably going to be good to go in another few days.

 

The Sheet is in.

 

Canton Palace has a hole.

 

JLTL/JLTR are forming but probably not climbable for another few days.

 

Drove down to Cruel Pools for a looksee, it also seems to need a few more days to get climbable. The "unclimbed WI4" mentioned in the guide is discontinuous blobs.

 

Thacker Falls is in but likewise thin.

 

Jarvis Bluffs is pretty thin except the top of NW Passage which is quite fat. But as we all know its the lower pitches that rarely form that are the crux so, in summary, maybe not in.

 

The Honeymoon is big and fat with a big fat avvy hazard.

 

Drool in the Lotus is very snowy and unappealing.

 

Various unclimbed things in the Deneau Creek Road area need more time to form.

 

Fraser Canyon is very thin but forming from Superheroes Cirque south. Sailor Bar Gully was climbable (soloable) but not protectable, with weird blobby mushroom ice. None of the other routes was completely formed yet.

 

Water Music wasn't fully in.

Under The Big Top has lower pitches formed and a big wet fresh hole in the top pitch. Looks like half the pitch fell off in the direct sunshine.

 

Hells Gate climbs are fat and blue. -7C. Except that Cerberus still has a hole in the first pitch.

 

I assume that everything north of Hells Gate is therefore also in except for rarely formed stuff like Crucible.

 

Coming back via Hwy 7, Hells Lake Falls is icing in but nowhere near climbable yet. Tailwind is about 60% formed and also not climbable.

[cheamclimber]

wow, thanks for all the info Dru! I think I might head up to Hells Gate if its good, only about 1hr from my house, I walked from my house to Hopyard hill today and there were thin streaks ov ice all over it, there were two 20ft boulder problems that were fun to climb tho. Cant wait for saturday!

[G-spotter]

Mousetrap p1

 

P2

 

Uppermost pitches of Cerberus from highway.

[steller]

is there a guide book to relate all those cool names to geographic locals? nice lowdown on the routes by the way.I know some of the names.. but alot I dont. living in agassiz im sure I have seen almost all of em. at one point or another. Thanks eh!

 

Chris.

[G-spotter]

Some/most of them are in West Coast Ice but we're doing our best to put it out of date, about 20? new routes around Hope since the book came out

[G-spotter]

BTW the Hells Gate ice was excellent today

[cheamclimber]

Me and Mike Warn drove up to Hells Gate today to climb some ice but the one route that looked sweet had a huge hole of running water and looked scary climbing around it... so we went and bouldered around by Lake of the Woods. After I got home Iwent to the juction of hwy 9 and hwy 7 and soloed 3/4 p a steep ice formation there but backed off the final 10 ft of it. Do u know anything about this place? It was pretty fun and some bigger climbs look like thay could form with a longer cold spell.

Edited January 27, 2008 by cheamclimber