Multi-point Pre-Equalized Anchoring Systems

[mike1]

Excellent information >>gone<<

 

Edited January 4, 2008 by Mikester

[Bill_Simpkins]

"Scientists have shown that three is greater than one, but four is not that much greater than 3. After years of study and millions in funding, the researchers came to this controversial conclusion. Many previously believed that one was greater than three, but now the greatest minds in the world have proved them wrong."

 

Taken from "3 is greater than 1, but 4 is not much greater than 3" paper produced by:

J.H. Desperateforgrant IV PhD

Bob Hadnothingbettertodo PhD

Sarah Lookingforanythingtogetpress PhD

 

[mike1]

uh... yeah.

[Bill_Simpkins]

I have little respect for research which closes with:

"When in doubt, use bolts". I've pulled out newly placed bolts with my bare hands. In fact, that very sentence could harm more people than the paper could ever help.

I assume their intentions are good, but when they say stuff like that, it loses credibility, especially with their target audience, climbers.

 

 

[dmuja]

4/I-hs2B=Ar/(L+D2+B)/Q-r(L-D2)=3T/6%(D-C2)x~D2+1g=0r=0/St=D2s)4x2

-iL/OLxF2-lD1+Bs2B=ArD2-3T/T+ET/q-R2~V2sxD2+1g/2s)4(L+D2/L-D2)x~D

2L+D2/Lt=Sr+Sz=T-sB2+Bs2B=Ar/(L+D2+B)/Q-r(L-D2)=3T/6%(D-C2)x~D2+1

g=0+Bs2B=ArD2-3T/(L+D2/L-s)4(L+D2/L-D2)x~D2L+D2/Lt=Sr+Sz=T-sB2+Bs

2B=Ar/(L+D2+B)/Q-r(L-D2)=3T/6%(D-C2)x~D2+1g=0+Bs2B=F+ETi=0/St=Sr+

Sz=T-sB2+Bs2B=Ar/(L+D2+B)/Q-r(L-D2)=3T/6%(D-C2)x~D2+1g=0+Bs2B=ArD

2-3T/(L+D2/L-D2)xD2+1gQ-r(L-D2)=T+ET/q-R2~V2s(4-6q/2s)4+0/Ttx~D2+

1/Q-r=0/St=D2+B)/Q-r(D-C2)~2(6q/2s)4x2-iL/OLxF2-lD1(2%^6x/4-4/I-h

s2B=Ar/(L+D2+B)/Q-r(L-D2)=3T/6%(D-C2)x~D2+1g=0r=0/St=D2s)4x2-iL/O

LxF2-lD1+Bs2B=ArD2-3T/T+ET/q-R2~V2sxD2+1g/2s)4(L+D2/L-D2)x~D2L+D2

/Lt=Sr+Sz=T-sB2+Bs2B=Ar/(L+D2+B)/Q-r(L-D2)=3T/6%(D-C2)x~D2+1g=0+B

s2B=ArD2-3T/(L+D2/L-F+Ti=0/St=Sr+z=T-s2+Bs2B=Ar/(L+D2+B)/Q-r(LD2)

=3T/6%(D-C2)x~D2+1g=0+Bs2B=ArD2-3T/(L+D2/L-D2)xD2+1gQ-r(L-D2)=T+E

T/q-R2~V2s(4-6q/2s)4+0/Ttx~D2+1/Q-r=0/St=D2+B)/Q-r(D-C2)~2(6q/2s)

4x2-iL/OLxF2-lD1(2%^6x/4-4/I-hs2B=Ar/(L+D2+B)/Qr(L-D2)=3/6%(D-C2)

x~D2+1g=0r=0/St=D2s)4x2-iL/OLxF2-lD1+Bs2B=ArD2-3T/T+ET/q-R2~V2sxD

2+1g/2s)4(L+D2/L-D2)x~D2L+D2/Lt=Sr+Sz=T-sB2+Bs2B=Ar/(L+D2+B)/Q-r

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